pressure washer repair yourself image
desta
I have never done any plumbing repairs before, but my kitchen sink faucet drips regularly unless I find the exact position for the Delta faucet handle. I hate to use the kitchen sink because it is such a hassle to turn it completely off. I don't want to hire a plumber for something that I might be able to easily repair myself. Any advice?
Answer
It's sometimes difficult to keep from laughing while reading some of the responses to questions such as yours, asking for help repairing something, which is something most of the people responding couldn't even identify, let alone give advice on. You said it's a Delta kitchen faucet, which tells me it's a single handle unit, with a moveable center spigot. There will be two SEALS, not washers, in this unit, the hot side is the most usual culprit, but as long as you've got it apart, (if you opt to take it apart), then you may as well replace both. The kit you get at the hardware store or Home Depot, should have two new round rubber seals, two new tapered coil springs, (to keep pressure on the seals against), a new center control ball. Always, always replace the ball as well as the seals, as the old ball will frequently have small scratches on the surface which can let little dribbles of water thru, to form drips.
You'll need an allen wrench, the exact size for which escapes me, but if you're planning on saving yourself much money doing home repairs, you may as well invest in a small set of them for future use. After loosening the set screw, which will be on the underside of the handle, (I'm assuming here you've already shut off the water supply to the faucet), you should be able to twist the handle on the straight shaft sticking up out of the center ball, till it loosens enough to be able to pull it up and off. The large center cover, with the hole in the center for the ball shaft, will have to be loosened with a pair of water pump pliers, or channel locks, whichever you call them. If it's a fairly new, mostly unscratched faucet, you may want to use a towel or cloth of some kind between the chrome and the pliers, to minimize any new scratches. It, of course, comes off counterclockwise, goes back on clockwise to tighten. Once that's removed, you will have access to the center control ball and the two top seals that set above it and keep the water from squirting out of the chrome cover. You can pull the whole thing out by the stem, then you'll be able to see the two round seals and springs, setting in their slots in the base below. If it's an older faucet, the seals may be somewhat stuck in the slots, (holes), down inside and you may need to loosen them with one of the allen wrenches to get them to pop out. From here it's pretty much just reassembly work, putting the new seals, springs and center control ball back in proper order. I always lube everything, including the threads of the top chrome cover, with standard petroleum jelly, (vaseline). It makes everything work much easier. Be sure to get the small tab on the top seal, over the control ball, back into the little slot on the side of the column, otherwise it won't seat properly when you push it down . Once you have it all reassembled, turn on the water pressure slowly, watching for leaks at the connections. Good luck.
It's sometimes difficult to keep from laughing while reading some of the responses to questions such as yours, asking for help repairing something, which is something most of the people responding couldn't even identify, let alone give advice on. You said it's a Delta kitchen faucet, which tells me it's a single handle unit, with a moveable center spigot. There will be two SEALS, not washers, in this unit, the hot side is the most usual culprit, but as long as you've got it apart, (if you opt to take it apart), then you may as well replace both. The kit you get at the hardware store or Home Depot, should have two new round rubber seals, two new tapered coil springs, (to keep pressure on the seals against), a new center control ball. Always, always replace the ball as well as the seals, as the old ball will frequently have small scratches on the surface which can let little dribbles of water thru, to form drips.
You'll need an allen wrench, the exact size for which escapes me, but if you're planning on saving yourself much money doing home repairs, you may as well invest in a small set of them for future use. After loosening the set screw, which will be on the underside of the handle, (I'm assuming here you've already shut off the water supply to the faucet), you should be able to twist the handle on the straight shaft sticking up out of the center ball, till it loosens enough to be able to pull it up and off. The large center cover, with the hole in the center for the ball shaft, will have to be loosened with a pair of water pump pliers, or channel locks, whichever you call them. If it's a fairly new, mostly unscratched faucet, you may want to use a towel or cloth of some kind between the chrome and the pliers, to minimize any new scratches. It, of course, comes off counterclockwise, goes back on clockwise to tighten. Once that's removed, you will have access to the center control ball and the two top seals that set above it and keep the water from squirting out of the chrome cover. You can pull the whole thing out by the stem, then you'll be able to see the two round seals and springs, setting in their slots in the base below. If it's an older faucet, the seals may be somewhat stuck in the slots, (holes), down inside and you may need to loosen them with one of the allen wrenches to get them to pop out. From here it's pretty much just reassembly work, putting the new seals, springs and center control ball back in proper order. I always lube everything, including the threads of the top chrome cover, with standard petroleum jelly, (vaseline). It makes everything work much easier. Be sure to get the small tab on the top seal, over the control ball, back into the little slot on the side of the column, otherwise it won't seat properly when you push it down . Once you have it all reassembled, turn on the water pressure slowly, watching for leaks at the connections. Good luck.
Is there a website that will help me fix my leaky tub knob?
mrtoddanso
I have a hot water knob in a bathtub that will not stop leaking. It is causing the actual spout to leak also. Is there a do it yourself link that will help me fix it? I can find tons of sites that help you fix a leaky sink or tub spout, but none of them say a WORD about the knob.
Answer
Hot water knobs frequently need repairs.
It's not that hard to do.
First turn off the water (there is usually a cut off near the water heater) and bleed off the pressure.
Second remove the knob from the stem (this is sometimes hard to do because of corrosion) there is a tool that may help at the hardware store.
Third remove the entire stem assembly (you may have to use a closet wrench is it is too deep in the wall)
Fourth look inside the body at the bottom at the seat. If it is pitted then it needs to be replaced. (yes there is another tool for this it's called a valve seat remover)
Fifth take the whole stem down to the hardware store and have them replace the washer, the seat (which you will have to install at home,) and have them show where the stem packing is and to check it (replace if needed)
Sixth reinstall the seat.
Seventh reinstall the stem.
Eighth turn the water back on and check around the stem for leaks. If there is a leak then tighten the stem packing nut till the leaking stops.
Ninth replace the knob.
At this point the faucet is completely rebuilt and should be trouble free for years and you'll have the basic tools for repairing any other faucet in your house.
Good Luck
Hot water knobs frequently need repairs.
It's not that hard to do.
First turn off the water (there is usually a cut off near the water heater) and bleed off the pressure.
Second remove the knob from the stem (this is sometimes hard to do because of corrosion) there is a tool that may help at the hardware store.
Third remove the entire stem assembly (you may have to use a closet wrench is it is too deep in the wall)
Fourth look inside the body at the bottom at the seat. If it is pitted then it needs to be replaced. (yes there is another tool for this it's called a valve seat remover)
Fifth take the whole stem down to the hardware store and have them replace the washer, the seat (which you will have to install at home,) and have them show where the stem packing is and to check it (replace if needed)
Sixth reinstall the seat.
Seventh reinstall the stem.
Eighth turn the water back on and check around the stem for leaks. If there is a leak then tighten the stem packing nut till the leaking stops.
Ninth replace the knob.
At this point the faucet is completely rebuilt and should be trouble free for years and you'll have the basic tools for repairing any other faucet in your house.
Good Luck
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