my pressure washer has clicking noise when tryin to start?

chico

i have a 6.75hp briggs & stratton pressure washer that was workingfine and then it cut off due to gas and then iadded gas and 5 min into washing it turned off and the pull cord was stiff and trying to pull it so many times it finally pulled but now has clicking noise when pulling and it will not start any suggestions onhowto fix.........

Answer
Look under the cover of the pulley that the cord is wound around and make sure the little metal tabs are down flat against the pulley. Also, the bearings on the pulley may be bad. It is also possible the cord has come out of the pulley and making it harder to pull the cord. If it has come out, you will need to remove the cover, raise the little metal tabs and get the cord back onto the pulley. Be careful taking it off because if the recoil spring comes out, it is a real pain sometimes to get it all back together. If you don't think you can repair it yourself, you may need to take it to a small engine repair place and let them fix it for you.

Washer trouble?

Melissa

I have a Samsung front load washer wf210anw/xaa that will not run a wash cycle. It will suck in a little water spin the load to weigh it, some times it will do this for 5-10 minutes than pop up a nf code that's no water. It will however run a rinse spin cycle no problem so it's not not getting water. We have checked hoses, water pressure, filters and just about everything else we can without tearing it apart. Any ideas what the problem could be

Answer
I don't know the answer, but here's how to solve it. Call an appliance repair shop as close as possible to your home, or go in to their shop. Tell them the symptoms and tell them you would like to replace whatever part is bad yourself to save money. If they know the answer, they will tell you, they'll sell you the part and tell you how to install it. If they don't know the answer or if the repair requires expertise, they will offer to do a service call and fix it. All of the ones I ever dealt with are honest and skilled. They like to advise people and are very good at figuring out what's wrong just by listening to the symptoms.

Mayan

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my pressure washer has clicking noise when tryin to start?

chico

i have a 6.75hp briggs & stratton pressure washer that was workingfine and then it cut off due to gas and then iadded gas and 5 min into washing it turned off and the pull cord was stiff and trying to pull it so many times it finally pulled but now has clicking noise when pulling and it will not start any suggestions onhowto fix.........

Answer
Look under the cover of the pulley that the cord is wound around and make sure the little metal tabs are down flat against the pulley. Also, the bearings on the pulley may be bad. It is also possible the cord has come out of the pulley and making it harder to pull the cord. If it has come out, you will need to remove the cover, raise the little metal tabs and get the cord back onto the pulley. Be careful taking it off because if the recoil spring comes out, it is a real pain sometimes to get it all back together. If you don't think you can repair it yourself, you may need to take it to a small engine repair place and let them fix it for you.

Washer trouble?

Melissa

I have a Samsung front load washer wf210anw/xaa that will not run a wash cycle. It will suck in a little water spin the load to weigh it, some times it will do this for 5-10 minutes than pop up a nf code that's no water. It will however run a rinse spin cycle no problem so it's not not getting water. We have checked hoses, water pressure, filters and just about everything else we can without tearing it apart. Any ideas what the problem could be

Answer
I don't know the answer, but here's how to solve it. Call an appliance repair shop as close as possible to your home, or go in to their shop. Tell them the symptoms and tell them you would like to replace whatever part is bad yourself to save money. If they know the answer, they will tell you, they'll sell you the part and tell you how to install it. If they don't know the answer or if the repair requires expertise, they will offer to do a service call and fix it. All of the ones I ever dealt with are honest and skilled. They like to advise people and are very good at figuring out what's wrong just by listening to the symptoms.

Mayan

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How do you repair a dripping kitchen sink faucet?

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desta

I have never done any plumbing repairs before, but my kitchen sink faucet drips regularly unless I find the exact position for the Delta faucet handle. I hate to use the kitchen sink because it is such a hassle to turn it completely off. I don't want to hire a plumber for something that I might be able to easily repair myself. Any advice?

Answer
It's sometimes difficult to keep from laughing while reading some of the responses to questions such as yours, asking for help repairing something, which is something most of the people responding couldn't even identify, let alone give advice on. You said it's a Delta kitchen faucet, which tells me it's a single handle unit, with a moveable center spigot. There will be two SEALS, not washers, in this unit, the hot side is the most usual culprit, but as long as you've got it apart, (if you opt to take it apart), then you may as well replace both. The kit you get at the hardware store or Home Depot, should have two new round rubber seals, two new tapered coil springs, (to keep pressure on the seals against), a new center control ball. Always, always replace the ball as well as the seals, as the old ball will frequently have small scratches on the surface which can let little dribbles of water thru, to form drips.
You'll need an allen wrench, the exact size for which escapes me, but if you're planning on saving yourself much money doing home repairs, you may as well invest in a small set of them for future use. After loosening the set screw, which will be on the underside of the handle, (I'm assuming here you've already shut off the water supply to the faucet), you should be able to twist the handle on the straight shaft sticking up out of the center ball, till it loosens enough to be able to pull it up and off. The large center cover, with the hole in the center for the ball shaft, will have to be loosened with a pair of water pump pliers, or channel locks, whichever you call them. If it's a fairly new, mostly unscratched faucet, you may want to use a towel or cloth of some kind between the chrome and the pliers, to minimize any new scratches. It, of course, comes off counterclockwise, goes back on clockwise to tighten. Once that's removed, you will have access to the center control ball and the two top seals that set above it and keep the water from squirting out of the chrome cover. You can pull the whole thing out by the stem, then you'll be able to see the two round seals and springs, setting in their slots in the base below. If it's an older faucet, the seals may be somewhat stuck in the slots, (holes), down inside and you may need to loosen them with one of the allen wrenches to get them to pop out. From here it's pretty much just reassembly work, putting the new seals, springs and center control ball back in proper order. I always lube everything, including the threads of the top chrome cover, with standard petroleum jelly, (vaseline). It makes everything work much easier. Be sure to get the small tab on the top seal, over the control ball, back into the little slot on the side of the column, otherwise it won't seat properly when you push it down . Once you have it all reassembled, turn on the water pressure slowly, watching for leaks at the connections. Good luck.

Is there a website that will help me fix my leaky tub knob?

mrtoddanso

I have a hot water knob in a bathtub that will not stop leaking. It is causing the actual spout to leak also. Is there a do it yourself link that will help me fix it? I can find tons of sites that help you fix a leaky sink or tub spout, but none of them say a WORD about the knob.

Answer
Hot water knobs frequently need repairs.
It's not that hard to do.
First turn off the water (there is usually a cut off near the water heater) and bleed off the pressure.
Second remove the knob from the stem (this is sometimes hard to do because of corrosion) there is a tool that may help at the hardware store.
Third remove the entire stem assembly (you may have to use a closet wrench is it is too deep in the wall)
Fourth look inside the body at the bottom at the seat. If it is pitted then it needs to be replaced. (yes there is another tool for this it's called a valve seat remover)
Fifth take the whole stem down to the hardware store and have them replace the washer, the seat (which you will have to install at home,) and have them show where the stem packing is and to check it (replace if needed)
Sixth reinstall the seat.
Seventh reinstall the stem.
Eighth turn the water back on and check around the stem for leaks. If there is a leak then tighten the stem packing nut till the leaking stops.
Ninth replace the knob.
At this point the faucet is completely rebuilt and should be trouble free for years and you'll have the basic tools for repairing any other faucet in your house.

Good Luck

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The hot water faucet to my washing machine is leaking a lot?

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Adeline L

When I turn my washing machine on the hot water faucet leaks to the floor. I put plumbers tape and tightened every screw and bolt but to no avail. Here is a link to some pictures. I drew an arrow pointing to where the leak is coming from. Should I replace the whole thing? Any advice would be most appreciated.

http://s273.photobucket.com/albums/jj204/dracon45/Washer/

Answer
No, you don't need to buy a new faucet. If you understand how the faucet works, then it is fairly easy to repair it.

The faucet handle is attached to a shaft called the "stem." When the faucet is opened [turned on], water wants to also come out around the stem [between it and the large hexagonal "packing nut" which the stem passes through/sticks out of].

To prevent that there is a flexible string-like packing material wrapped around the stem, under the packing nut. When installed, the packing is wound around the stem and is loose and does not want to fit under the packing nut.

The packing is nut is forced down onto and compresses the packing until the threads in the packing nut can be screwed onto the the faucet body below. Then the packing nut is tightened just enough to compress the packing around the stem tight enough to stop the leaking of the water under pressure.

IF too much packing is used, and/or the nut is tightened too much then it is very difficult to turn the handle and stem. So, the trick is to tighten the packing nut just enough to stop the leaking and still be able to turn the handle'stem.

First, I suggest that you try [little by little] tightening the packing nut to see if it will stop the leak. If you screw the packing nut all the way down until it stops, BUT water still leaks around the stem, the that means the packing material is worn out and needs to be replaced. Therefore, replacement of the packing material is the next step.

Take the photo with the red arrow to your local hardware store, and find a knowledgable clerk. Explain your problem while showing the photo. He/she should be able to provide you with a packing material kit, and explain how you can fix this problem yourself.

I cannot tell by looking at your faucet picture how old it is but, some of the newer faucets use a rubber-like washer instead of the string-like packing. With the washer, you'll have to remove the handle to allow removal of the stem from the hole in the packing nut in order to slip the washer down the stem.

With luck, the packing repair kit will have illustrated instructions to help you.

98 Camry leaking oil and my check engine light comes on?

Kenzie072

The oil leak is a problem that no one can find the answer too yet it is all over my driveway(and yes it is oil), and my check engine light comes on for no reason that anyone can find. (They tell me that my gas cap is not tight enough) I have taken it to a few dealerships in my area. Someone, anyone any Ideas???

Answer
Shoot it. Toyotas have no soul. (Just kidding). Has anyone degreased and thoroughly cleaned the underneath and engine to see where the oil is actually coming from? Sounds like you need a good mechanic! (But you already know that). 1. Clean and degrease the engine including underneath. (You can do this yourself with a high pressure washer and degreaser however stay clear of the spark plug leads and other electrics as it may not start when you have finished). 2 Put a large piece of cardboard under the car and wait. 3 check where the oil lands. 4 get under the car (Please use ramps or proper stands, I have witnessed a person get crushed, not pretty). Look up from where the oil is landing. See if you can identify the source. If you can mark it (white paint on a small brush will do). If its simple you may be able to fix it yourself. If not you can go to the mechanic (or 2 or 3) and get an accurate estimate to do the repair. Now that you know the location of the leak you may not know how to fix it but you are less likely to get ripped off. Oil leaks should not be a fact of life on a car as new as 98. Could be anything from a seal to a sump gasket, sump plug O ring (probably copper) oil filter not tight enough or seal leaking, rocker (tappet) cover gasket or any number of other gaskets. Could also be gearbox related or coming from the driveshafts. Did it start slowly? is it getting worse? how long has it been leaking? how much oil are you losing? These are all questions any decent mechanic should ask before he starts charging. For any mechanic to tell you he cant find the leak is crap. He isn't looking hard enough. Go to a decent private mechanic who doesnt mind getting dirty. In regard to the Engine check light it is probably a sensor. You need to plug it in and get an error code.. That should tell you what the alleged cause is. Unfortunately you will probably have to go to a dealer to plug it in unless you know of an independant mechanic with the gear. (Then again if you did we wouldnt be here!) Hope that's some help.

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