pressure washer fittings image
Carlos
I have a blue plastic, 55 gallon, drum that I want to use to supply my electric pressure washer. I want to open a 3/4 hole and put a fitting where I'll be able to put a hose connecting it to the electric pressure washer thereby being able to use the pressure washer anywhere. What type of plastic glue or cement should I use?
Answer
Pressure washers are designed to receive input water at a pressure of 25 - 60 psi or more. They are not designed to "suck". Even with the drum full, the head will not create more than about 10 psi and as water is removed from the drum, pressure will drop to near 0 psi. My best estimate is that this arrangement will burn out your pressure washer very quickly.
But if you insist, many drums have one hole already threaded to take a 3/4" pipe fitting. Simply buy a threaded hose bib (faucet) and thread it in. If your drum is the kind with two larger lids, buy one or more reducing fittings in the plumbing department to sleeve the size down to a standard threaded hose-bib. As an alternative, bore a hole in one of the lids and install your hose-bib in the hole using a rubber washer on the outside with a stainless steel washer and nut on the inside.
Once you have your faucet installed, lay the drum on its side on a trailer or an improvised "stone boat" you can pull to your location. The faucet, of course, must be on the bottom.
If you're really willing to put your pressure washer at risk on this rig, you can reduce the risk by installing in the other lid a pipe nipple and tee. On one side of the tee install a snifter valve (like a tire valve) . On the other side of the tee, install a pressure guage. When you want to use the rig, fill the drum only 1/2 full of water and use an air compressor to jack the pressure in the drum up to about 80 psi. Then you can safely pressure wash 'til the pressure on the guage drops to about 25 psi.
If that doesn't give you enough wash time, plumb a second drum (or a pressure tank) in parallel with the water tank. Then you can fill your original drum with water and the second with air.
But wouldn't it be easier to just add an extra 50 feet or so of pressure line? Since you have an electric pressure pump you must be running power to it. Anything more than about 100 ft. of extension cord is likely to cause the pump motor to over heat.
Good luck,
Honey-Lee
Pressure washers are designed to receive input water at a pressure of 25 - 60 psi or more. They are not designed to "suck". Even with the drum full, the head will not create more than about 10 psi and as water is removed from the drum, pressure will drop to near 0 psi. My best estimate is that this arrangement will burn out your pressure washer very quickly.
But if you insist, many drums have one hole already threaded to take a 3/4" pipe fitting. Simply buy a threaded hose bib (faucet) and thread it in. If your drum is the kind with two larger lids, buy one or more reducing fittings in the plumbing department to sleeve the size down to a standard threaded hose-bib. As an alternative, bore a hole in one of the lids and install your hose-bib in the hole using a rubber washer on the outside with a stainless steel washer and nut on the inside.
Once you have your faucet installed, lay the drum on its side on a trailer or an improvised "stone boat" you can pull to your location. The faucet, of course, must be on the bottom.
If you're really willing to put your pressure washer at risk on this rig, you can reduce the risk by installing in the other lid a pipe nipple and tee. On one side of the tee install a snifter valve (like a tire valve) . On the other side of the tee, install a pressure guage. When you want to use the rig, fill the drum only 1/2 full of water and use an air compressor to jack the pressure in the drum up to about 80 psi. Then you can safely pressure wash 'til the pressure on the guage drops to about 25 psi.
If that doesn't give you enough wash time, plumb a second drum (or a pressure tank) in parallel with the water tank. Then you can fill your original drum with water and the second with air.
But wouldn't it be easier to just add an extra 50 feet or so of pressure line? Since you have an electric pressure pump you must be running power to it. Anything more than about 100 ft. of extension cord is likely to cause the pump motor to over heat.
Good luck,
Honey-Lee
Is there any way to fix a leak in a pressure washer hose?
George
I was using my pressure washer and managed to get the hose against the engine for about two seconds and it blew a hole in the hose. This is the second time this has happened. I really hate to buy another hose if there is a way this one can be fixed.
Does anyone know a way to fix this without replacing the hose?
Thanks,
Answer
Pressure Washers operate at HIGH PRESSURE and any leaks from the hose can therefore be DANGEROUS!!! A small hole in such, can act much like a scaple.
Depending on the pressure of the system it could even be LIFE THREATENINGLY DANGEROUS!!!
Have the hose repaired by an AUTHORIZED dealer for the specific brand of hose you have.
IF the hose can be repaired, they will be able to tell you how it can best be done to meet your needs.
The two possible options are a mender (a single fittings that permanently joins two hose ends, to achieve a single length of hose) and a new set of couplings (Mating couplings that effectively create TWO shorter lengths of hose).
*** No other forms of repair will be able to withstand the pressures involved. ***
If this is the SECOND time this has happened to you, it would seem prudent to place some sort of shield over the engine to keep the hose away from it without reducing the cooling effect of the exposure needed by the engine, or employ some sort of retaining device to keep the hose away from the engine.
Pressure Washers operate at HIGH PRESSURE and any leaks from the hose can therefore be DANGEROUS!!! A small hole in such, can act much like a scaple.
Depending on the pressure of the system it could even be LIFE THREATENINGLY DANGEROUS!!!
Have the hose repaired by an AUTHORIZED dealer for the specific brand of hose you have.
IF the hose can be repaired, they will be able to tell you how it can best be done to meet your needs.
The two possible options are a mender (a single fittings that permanently joins two hose ends, to achieve a single length of hose) and a new set of couplings (Mating couplings that effectively create TWO shorter lengths of hose).
*** No other forms of repair will be able to withstand the pressures involved. ***
If this is the SECOND time this has happened to you, it would seem prudent to place some sort of shield over the engine to keep the hose away from it without reducing the cooling effect of the exposure needed by the engine, or employ some sort of retaining device to keep the hose away from the engine.
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