pressure washer valve kit image
Tiger L
Are the parts for a Japanese car more expensive? Thank you in advance for any help.
Answer
Buy a japanese car. American cars get cheaper faster, most are made of low quality. Get a nissan sentra spec v or honda civic ex. They are more efficient, decrease in price slower and last longer.
DO NOT rice it please.If you want to modify it, modify the engine. If you want a good exhaust, get a dual or quad exhaust setup.
If you want brake calipers disk rotors etc, get brembo. if you want tires (rubber) get pirelli.
What ricing is:
Ricing a vehicle is meant to emulate the aesthetic work of independent automotive car tuning companies who modify more than just appearance, and to give an appearance of greater ability than the car actually has. Ricing is generally looked down upon amongst people who perform engine tuning and other performance racing modifications.
Common aftermarket modifications in this style can include but are not limited to:
Body modifications
Aerodynamic-seeming or creatively-designed body kits, often with little function
Wings and spoilers that serve no useful function (especially if the car is front wheel drive), possibly increasing drag and decreasing traction.
Carbon fiber hoods (sometimes fiberglass replicas made to look like carbon fiber, or just decorative self adhesive plastic with carbon fiber look)
Non-functional hood scoops and roof scoops.
Excessively large wheels ("rims") (for example chromed, or "dubs", as well as spinners) that often decrease acceleration due to higher rotational inertia. Handling is also often made worse by the extra unsprung weight.
Improperly lowered suspension, such as stock springs shortened by heating or cutting or from getting improper alignment resulting in excessive negative camber.
Bumper canards fitted to the front bumper.
Aesthetics
Bright paint or interior, frequently in contrasting colors
Decals and stickers for aftermarket parts not actually present on the vehicle. A common joke is that every decal "adds 10 horsepower" to the car.
Badging from other higher-performance vehicles or JDM tuning companies like Mugen, Nismo, etc.
Digital turbo, consisting of speakers installed under the car that emulate the sound of a turbo engine.
A loud, free-flowing exhaust system with a large cylindrical resonator at the rear of the car, known as a "fart cannon", a "coffee can" and many other colorful names. Frequently a short large-diameter piece is added to the end of the stock exhaust to provide the appearance of a true free-flowing system without any actual performance enhancement.
A turbocharger simulator that fits inside the exhaust tip and uses exhaust gas pressure to produce the high-pitched "spooling" sound of a turbocharger.
Lighting
Decorative neon and LED lighting in addition to the regular head/tail lamps and brake/turn signals, such as lighted windshield washer nozzles and tire valve caps, underbody neon lighting ("hover lights"), etc.
"Altezza"-style lights or "Altezzas" (equally popular and known as "Lexus" lights in Europe), which have the colored light sources and reflective bodies contained within chrome housings and clear lenses. The term "Altezza" comes from the JDM (Japanese Domestic Market) Toyota Altezza, known in the US as the Lexus IS300 and Europe as the Lexus IS200. Toyota continues to use "Altezza" style tail lights on various Lexus models, including the RX "crossover SUV" and ES sedan
Super-bright headlight bulbs, sometimes of illegal specification and poorly aligned; colored bulbs, also often illegal, which are used for turning signals, side-markers, etc.
Car has any of the aforementioned modifications, yet appears to have sloppy workmanship or has not been properly cared for (dirty, parts of the car with smashed or dented body work, etc.)
How to fix a leaky faucet?
D
There is a problem with my kitchen sink...
everytime we turn the water on all this water starts spilling onto the counters....
I took a look at it, and the water is coming out from the knobs- hot water from the hot water knob, and cold water from the cold water knob....
and it only does this when we turn on the faucet...when it's off, it doesn't leak...
How can I fix it?
thanks in advance...
And I want to know how, if I can, do it myself...I am aware that plumbers exist...(:
Answer Your description of hot and cold "knobs" suggests conventional valves [also called "faucets"]. The conventional faucets have a handle attached to a shaft [called a "stem"], which goes down through a large nut with a hole in the center for the stem.
If that nut has "flats" on it [usually 6 sides (hexagonal)] then that nut is called a "packing nut." The reason they are called packing nuts is that beneath them is a bunch of soft material called packing. The purpose of the packing is to keep water under pressure from coming out around the stem when the water is on.
On "old" faucets, the packing material is just Cotton string [in the REALLY OLD DAYS it was Asbestos string] impregnated with a greasy, tar-like material, and on newer faucets the packing string has sometimes been replaced with a rubber-like washer shaped sort of shaped like a cone with a hole in the center.
To prevent leaking when the water is on, the packing nut has to be tightened down on the packing just enough to squeeze it tightly enough around the stem, just enough to prevent leaking, but just loose enough to allow turning the knob and stem easily.
I first suggest trying to tighten the packing nuts slightly, just enough to prevent the leaking. If tightening will not stop the leaking then the packing material will need to be replaced.
To prevent slipping which will damage the Chrome or other plating on the packing nuts, use a wrench which intimately fits the nuts, and thus reduce the chance of slippage, and allows you maximum control of the pressure you apply to the nuts. I prefer an adjustable wrench [one common brand name is "Cresent Wrench"], but it is crucial that it be properly adjusted to fit the nut tightly to reduce the chance of slipping. USUALLY, these nuts tighten by turning clockwise, and loosen/remove by turning counterclockwise.
To adjust, one at a time, turn the packing nuts clockwise [about 5 rotational degrees at a time] while the faucet is open and water is running. Watch for the leakage to stop. It helps to have a "helper" with a rag or sponge to be constantly removing leaking water as you adjust. This is not necessary, but makes it easier to tell when the packing nut is tightened enough. When it stops, you have tightened the packing nut, and packing material below enough.
As soon as the
