pressure washer 1200 psi image
Q. NEVER pressure washed before:
water temp?
angle of wand?
Is a chemical solution part of the process?
How much pressure, in PSI?
Then stain?
Then seal?
Do you sand at all before staining?
Thanks for any tips/hints
water temp?
angle of wand?
Is a chemical solution part of the process?
How much pressure, in PSI?
Then stain?
Then seal?
Do you sand at all before staining?
Thanks for any tips/hints
Answer
water temp doesn't matter
1st soak all wood to be washed with bleach/wood wash solution, using a garden sprayer (olympic makes a good deck wash, or if you have mildew, use jo-max. both are available at paint retailers)
2nd wash the surfaces. use a tip with the widest fan pattern. move the wand from side to side, and don't stop with the spray in one place, or you will damage the surface. instead,
"feather" by bending your wrist to direct the spray sideways at the end of each pass. as long as you keed the wand moving you'll be ok. practice on a 2 x 6 board, or on the side beams or support posts.
start at 1000-1200 psi. increase the pressure as you get the hang of it, to a setting that works best. some power washers have a detatchable wand so you can put the tip directly on the gun, which is much easier for rails and spindles, .be careful of splash back in corners.
let the wood dry thouroughly, 48 hours at least. staining or sealing is a matter of taste. again, olympic makes great semi transparent and solid stains. but stains can wear off in traffic areas. if you use a semi transparent, next time you would have to strip the entire deck.
if you choose to seal it, DON'T USE THOMPSONS! it contains wax which looks great and repels water wonderfully, for about six months. then it starts to discolor and show wear.
flood co. (www.flood.com) makes a product called CWF that i have found is the best out there. apply in the morning to avoid direct sunlight. use an 18 inch 1/2" nap roller on the deck itself if you have a lot of surface area, and i mini roller on the spindles and rails.
get your products and tips at your local paint store where professional painters go, rather than one of those home centers.
powerwashing this way will prep the wood for application of any product. there shouldn't be any need for sanding. good luck
water temp doesn't matter
1st soak all wood to be washed with bleach/wood wash solution, using a garden sprayer (olympic makes a good deck wash, or if you have mildew, use jo-max. both are available at paint retailers)
2nd wash the surfaces. use a tip with the widest fan pattern. move the wand from side to side, and don't stop with the spray in one place, or you will damage the surface. instead,
"feather" by bending your wrist to direct the spray sideways at the end of each pass. as long as you keed the wand moving you'll be ok. practice on a 2 x 6 board, or on the side beams or support posts.
start at 1000-1200 psi. increase the pressure as you get the hang of it, to a setting that works best. some power washers have a detatchable wand so you can put the tip directly on the gun, which is much easier for rails and spindles, .be careful of splash back in corners.
let the wood dry thouroughly, 48 hours at least. staining or sealing is a matter of taste. again, olympic makes great semi transparent and solid stains. but stains can wear off in traffic areas. if you use a semi transparent, next time you would have to strip the entire deck.
if you choose to seal it, DON'T USE THOMPSONS! it contains wax which looks great and repels water wonderfully, for about six months. then it starts to discolor and show wear.
flood co. (www.flood.com) makes a product called CWF that i have found is the best out there. apply in the morning to avoid direct sunlight. use an 18 inch 1/2" nap roller on the deck itself if you have a lot of surface area, and i mini roller on the spindles and rails.
get your products and tips at your local paint store where professional painters go, rather than one of those home centers.
powerwashing this way will prep the wood for application of any product. there shouldn't be any need for sanding. good luck
Need to break my pressure washer pressure ( 3000 psi) into different level 500,1200,1800,2200, 2500,2800 psi?
adhikari_s
I am sending 3000 psi through pipe and need to break and obtain differnt psi strength at different point because I need to test my device in different psi level. Please help me to do so. Do I need to buy differnt psi checking meter or I can use valves at different check point. Kindly help me giving easy way
Answer
Since a pressure washer uses a positive displacement pump you will need to keep a flow of water through the pump.
This is done by installing a recirculating relief valve from the discharge to the inlet side of the pump.
When pressure rises above a preset limit the relief valve opens and returns some of the high pressure water back to the inlet, recirculating.
Most pressure washers come with such a pressure setting device already installed. You either need to adjust it OR it may be damaged and stuck closed.
You may also add a relief valve to the inlet of your device to protect it from over pressure and to allso testing at different pressures. Just let this valve blow off to the ground or a drain...
Since a pressure washer uses a positive displacement pump you will need to keep a flow of water through the pump.
This is done by installing a recirculating relief valve from the discharge to the inlet side of the pump.
When pressure rises above a preset limit the relief valve opens and returns some of the high pressure water back to the inlet, recirculating.
Most pressure washers come with such a pressure setting device already installed. You either need to adjust it OR it may be damaged and stuck closed.
You may also add a relief valve to the inlet of your device to protect it from over pressure and to allso testing at different pressures. Just let this valve blow off to the ground or a drain...
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