pressure washer equipment image
LittleFree
My mom's deck is old but sturdy (she's renting too)... but I'd like to refinish the deck in exchange for their rent remaining the same for two years....
Before I open my mouth... just how much work am I looking at and where can I rent equipment???...
This is what I found on the internet.... didn't look impossible.
Refinish a deck:
1. Use a hammer to refasten protruding nails.
2. Trim raised edges with a sandpaper block, electric sander, or plane.
3. As needed, clean gray or dirty wood with a solution of 1 cup bleach in a gallon of water. Apply with a brush or broom.
4. Use a pressure washer to clean the deck, being careful not to damage the wood with excessive pressure.
5. Apply stain or wood preservative following the manufacturer's instructions.
6. Apply wood sealer following manufacturer's instructions.
Answer
In my work a large part of what I do is deck work. Certainly the most economical thing to do is rent a pressure washer and use it to bring back the deck to as close to orig. as possible. If in fact the wood was treated and isn't in bad shape, you might remove all the SILVER and find the deck looks pretty decent. Then seal it after it drys.
I choose NOT to use nails, and when replacing any popped up, I PULL them and use galvanized Deck screws.
Raised edges: Crazing/cupping/ cracking/crowning/warping in general, are usually things I replace. At the very least you might attempt removal of a piece and turn it over, judging the side that was down, and possibly OK in that any cup or crown might be acceptable on the flip side. I still suggest replace.
The balance of your list is fine, and it may be you don't need the bleach solution with a decent pressure wash. I choose NO chemicals, most especially because of safety issues and the damage to plant life. A nicely cleaned bleached deck might be great but the grass and other foliage on the surrounding property, might suffer.
Steven Wolf
AKA "The Deck Doc"
In my work a large part of what I do is deck work. Certainly the most economical thing to do is rent a pressure washer and use it to bring back the deck to as close to orig. as possible. If in fact the wood was treated and isn't in bad shape, you might remove all the SILVER and find the deck looks pretty decent. Then seal it after it drys.
I choose NOT to use nails, and when replacing any popped up, I PULL them and use galvanized Deck screws.
Raised edges: Crazing/cupping/ cracking/crowning/warping in general, are usually things I replace. At the very least you might attempt removal of a piece and turn it over, judging the side that was down, and possibly OK in that any cup or crown might be acceptable on the flip side. I still suggest replace.
The balance of your list is fine, and it may be you don't need the bleach solution with a decent pressure wash. I choose NO chemicals, most especially because of safety issues and the damage to plant life. A nicely cleaned bleached deck might be great but the grass and other foliage on the surrounding property, might suffer.
Steven Wolf
AKA "The Deck Doc"
How do you repaint a peeling deck?
brizkin1
I have a pressure treated deck that hasn't been painted for about 5 years. the paint is all peeling off in some places but the wood is in decent condition. I would like to know what I have to do remove the peeled paint and how to repaint. Do I need any special equipment (pressure washer/ paint sprayer) and do I need a primer since the deck doesn't have one?
Answer
Use a wire brush to remove as much of the loose paint as you can. I would then suggest an orbital sander with about 60 or 80 grit sand paper to remove the rest. A stripper would be too messy. But, sand paper with this big a grit should be able to remove the remaining paint with minimal clogging. When the paint is gone, switch to a 150 to 220 grit paper for final sanding. If you have a pressure washer, you can use it to clean the surface of sawdust before painting. Then put on a wood primer and paint away.
Use a wire brush to remove as much of the loose paint as you can. I would then suggest an orbital sander with about 60 or 80 grit sand paper to remove the rest. A stripper would be too messy. But, sand paper with this big a grit should be able to remove the remaining paint with minimal clogging. When the paint is gone, switch to a 150 to 220 grit paper for final sanding. If you have a pressure washer, you can use it to clean the surface of sawdust before painting. Then put on a wood primer and paint away.
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