Minggu, 08 Desember 2013

Pressure Washers: HONDA vs. BRIGGS & STRATTON engine?

pressure washer ratings on Pressure Washer Reviews & Ratings:The Karcher K5.85 Electric Pressure ...
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Orion


I am considering buying a pressure washer.
My uses: cars, decks, siding, and concrete/brick walkways.
Honda engine: 160 cc, 2600 max psi, 2.3 max gpm. ($339)
VS.
Briggs & Stratton engine: 175 cc, 2700 max psi, 2.3 max gpm. ($299)

As you can see, my dilema is trying to justify paying for a more expensive Honda engine that has less power ratings.

Which should I buy? and most importantly...why?



Answer
I have a Honda pressure washer,it has been in regular use for several years,without any trouble.

A/C Compressor does not turn off, somehow it does not reach the level where is should trip, why?




Umais





Answer
Your question is a little vague. Are you saying the house never cools to the point where the thermostat turns it off, or are you saying it just keeps running and running?

Quick check: slide the thermostat control to a much higher temperature, somewhere you're absolutely certain it will think the house is cool enough and turn off the AC. Wait five minutes.

Did the outside unit turn off? If not, no problem and your solution is in section 1. If it did, continue to section 2.

Section 1) - what's probably happened is your contactor is welded shut. A contactor is just a heavy-duty relay, a switch operated by the control system. The control system itself isn't heavy-duty enough to run something as powerful as the compressor, so it just turns on the power to the contactor, and THAT turns on the compressor. And over time, the contactor's contacts can overheat and weld themselves together ("welded shut") or develop so much slag and oxidation from arcing when opening that they cannot make a good contact anymore ("burned open"). Either one is fixed the same way: replace the contactor.

A new contactor will run you $30-60 typically, depending on where you go. Call your local AC parts dealers to find one that will sell to the general public. Electronics stores and appliance dealers sometimes have the right parts, too. You don't need to match make and model, just get the same ratings: you probably have 208-240v AC single-phase, so a two-pole contactor will likely get the job done for you. When you open the unit, take a picture or draw a quick sketch so you can see what wires went where when you need to put things back together. Don't forget to TURN POWER OFF FIRST before messing with the wires.

Section 2) Your AC is working but not able to get to your set temperature. If it did before, what's changed? Before you do anything else, check filters. Airflow is the name of the game with these things.

Have you ever cleaned the outdoor coils? Did you know you even SHOULD clean them? I do mine every year. Get the coil cleaner concentrate from an appliance parts dealer, remove the fan and spray it with a garden sprayer from the inside toward the outside. Let it foam up and push all the gunk out. Rinse it away with a good blast from a garden hose. DO NOT USE A PRESSURE WASHER. You can destroy the coils that way. Do it again, rinse. Do it again, rinse. Use up the entire gallon of concentrate and just keep cleaning until it's gone. Put everything back together and you're done.

Be sure all the vents are open.

If necessary, check the ducts and be certain there hasn't been any under-house critter damage.

Finally, and this is a tough one to do, you can do some disassembly of your indoor blower unit and inspect the coils. Again, mix up a batch of coil cleaner and clean them off. Rinsing is a bit more problematic here but if you've ever spent any time with no filter in place, I assure you your coils need cleaning. And if you use the cheap loose fiber kind of filter, you probably need to clean them anyway.

If that still doesn't fix it, you're going to need a tech. But now you've eliminated the simple stuff and the tech won't be able to snow you on unneeded services.

That's it. Good luck with it.




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