Tampilkan postingan dengan label pressure washer pump replacement. Tampilkan semua postingan
Tampilkan postingan dengan label pressure washer pump replacement. Tampilkan semua postingan

Kamis, 05 Juni 2014

Well pump is loud and pressure drops?

Q. We bought a house last year and this is our first dealings with well water and septic tanks. Our pump is in the basement (may be original to the 1960's house) and after the water runs for a couple minutes, it cycles on and it is CRAZY loud. Also, when it kicks on, there goes the pressure. Pray that you're the first one to take a shower in the morning. What could the problem be, and how much would it typically cost to fix this (Michigan)? We just installed our clothes washer, and the rinse cycle is taking forever and I fear with the pump on continuously our electric bill is going to go through the roof!
The tank looks original and the StaRite PumpTrol on top looks newer, model SNC-1. The water pressure in the rest of the house has dropped to literally just a trickle since I started the very first load of laundry a few minutes ago.


Answer
Depending on the type of pump you have it sounds like it definitely needs rebuilding at the very least, (like a new impellar, maybe new motor bearings, etc.), or replacement with new. As for the drop in pressure, it's most likely set to cycle on at a 20 lb. pressure and off at 40 lb. That may be ok if it has to kick on to fill the toilet tank at 20 lb., but when you're in the shower it's hardly enough water to rinse off with. I'd address the pump issue first. Have an experienced well guy come check it out, pump, well and all. They can check the well to see if the point is plugged or partially plugged or maybe drawing air, and then make their recommendations. I'm also in MI, SW lower part. If you need more help or a recommendation of people to help email me.

i need to know how to operate an old anthony smimming pool pump system?




sportyfort





Answer
You say old, so I'm assuming this will be an Anthony Apollo. The tank will be stainless steel that's painted a horrible rusty brown colour and the pump will be bronze with an AO smith motor.
It's a DE filter. Inside there are a series of vertical grids coated with DE, when the system has been charged. You don't mention which size filter this is (there are 2 sizes) so I can't tell you how much DE you need to charge a recently cleaned set of grids. The Chrome coloured handle in front is used to change the direction of water flow, through the filter from water going through the DE then into the grids...to coming from inside the grids and blowing off the DE covering. When that handle is placed in the up position (filter turned off and twisting the handle counter clockwise and pulling up) and the pump restarted, and run for a few seconds, it is what is called doing a "bump". It gets rid of some DE and contaminants it's caught and expells it via the pipe at the bottom of that valve. Give it two cycles of the pump (5 seconds each) and return the hamdle to the normal position.You do a bump whenever the pressure on the filter is about 8 PSI over your normal operating, start up pressure. Bumping is only really effective once. If your pressure climbs again, it's time to clean off the grids. For this, use the bump handle again and instead of giving it two short run cycles, run the pump until you see very little DE comming out of the discharge hose. Turn off the pump and open the pressure guage releif valve at the top of the tank. This lets the water in the tank to drain out the discharge hose quicker. There is a half inch nut on a tank band around the middle of the filter. Take it and the band off. If the water is gone from inside the filter, you should only need to give the top half of the tank a little nudge to unseat it. Remove the top and set it aside. The tank O ring will need to be cleaned with a rag after you remove it. Inspect it for cracks and how flattened it's become. You may need to replace it and now is the time, not later.
The grids come out, by disengaging the latch at the back inside of the tank and wiggling the assembly up. Use a garden hose or a small pressure washer to rinse off the grids. Clean out the inside of the tank and let it drain through the discharge. Reassemble everything and tighten the tank band by alternatively tapping around the band with a rubber mallet and tightening the nut. When it's snug, put the bump valve back in the normal position (down and locked), prime the pump with water in the pump basket and start it up. When your pump is starting to deliver water, undo the pressure releif valve at the tank top a bit, to allow the trapped air an escape. When it spits water, close it.
Head over to your skimmer with your bag of DE. If this is a small filter, it takes 8 pounds of DE, if a large one, it takes 10. Charge the system by slowly pouring the DE into the skimmer. It will get deposited on the grids you just cleaned. That's what we want. You're done, when the required amount of DE has been used.
In most cases, you won't have to do this more than once in a season. If you get a lot of very fine debris in the pool, maybe twice.
Other than that, these filters pretty well run themsleves. Replacement parts are still relatively easy to get, although you may have to dig up an Anthony dealer close to you. They seem to becoming a rare breed. In my area anyway.
You likely have a timer hooked up, make sure you're getting at least 12 hours of run time per day and that the clock is set to the correct time. If you have a polaris, this is very important, as the polaris must be synched to the filter timer and only be running when the filter is. If it runs and the filter isn't, you'll burn the shaft seal on the polaris pump. If you have any other questions, just add the details and I'll try to help you.




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Rabu, 07 Mei 2014

Well pump is loud and pressure drops?

Q. We bought a house last year and this is our first dealings with well water and septic tanks. Our pump is in the basement (may be original to the 1960's house) and after the water runs for a couple minutes, it cycles on and it is CRAZY loud. Also, when it kicks on, there goes the pressure. Pray that you're the first one to take a shower in the morning. What could the problem be, and how much would it typically cost to fix this (Michigan)? We just installed our clothes washer, and the rinse cycle is taking forever and I fear with the pump on continuously our electric bill is going to go through the roof!
The tank looks original and the StaRite PumpTrol on top looks newer, model SNC-1. The water pressure in the rest of the house has dropped to literally just a trickle since I started the very first load of laundry a few minutes ago.


Answer
Depending on the type of pump you have it sounds like it definitely needs rebuilding at the very least, (like a new impellar, maybe new motor bearings, etc.), or replacement with new. As for the drop in pressure, it's most likely set to cycle on at a 20 lb. pressure and off at 40 lb. That may be ok if it has to kick on to fill the toilet tank at 20 lb., but when you're in the shower it's hardly enough water to rinse off with. I'd address the pump issue first. Have an experienced well guy come check it out, pump, well and all. They can check the well to see if the point is plugged or partially plugged or maybe drawing air, and then make their recommendations. I'm also in MI, SW lower part. If you need more help or a recommendation of people to help email me.

i need to know how to operate an old anthony smimming pool pump system?




sportyfort





Answer
You say old, so I'm assuming this will be an Anthony Apollo. The tank will be stainless steel that's painted a horrible rusty brown colour and the pump will be bronze with an AO smith motor.
It's a DE filter. Inside there are a series of vertical grids coated with DE, when the system has been charged. You don't mention which size filter this is (there are 2 sizes) so I can't tell you how much DE you need to charge a recently cleaned set of grids. The Chrome coloured handle in front is used to change the direction of water flow, through the filter from water going through the DE then into the grids...to coming from inside the grids and blowing off the DE covering. When that handle is placed in the up position (filter turned off and twisting the handle counter clockwise and pulling up) and the pump restarted, and run for a few seconds, it is what is called doing a "bump". It gets rid of some DE and contaminants it's caught and expells it via the pipe at the bottom of that valve. Give it two cycles of the pump (5 seconds each) and return the hamdle to the normal position.You do a bump whenever the pressure on the filter is about 8 PSI over your normal operating, start up pressure. Bumping is only really effective once. If your pressure climbs again, it's time to clean off the grids. For this, use the bump handle again and instead of giving it two short run cycles, run the pump until you see very little DE comming out of the discharge hose. Turn off the pump and open the pressure guage releif valve at the top of the tank. This lets the water in the tank to drain out the discharge hose quicker. There is a half inch nut on a tank band around the middle of the filter. Take it and the band off. If the water is gone from inside the filter, you should only need to give the top half of the tank a little nudge to unseat it. Remove the top and set it aside. The tank O ring will need to be cleaned with a rag after you remove it. Inspect it for cracks and how flattened it's become. You may need to replace it and now is the time, not later.
The grids come out, by disengaging the latch at the back inside of the tank and wiggling the assembly up. Use a garden hose or a small pressure washer to rinse off the grids. Clean out the inside of the tank and let it drain through the discharge. Reassemble everything and tighten the tank band by alternatively tapping around the band with a rubber mallet and tightening the nut. When it's snug, put the bump valve back in the normal position (down and locked), prime the pump with water in the pump basket and start it up. When your pump is starting to deliver water, undo the pressure releif valve at the tank top a bit, to allow the trapped air an escape. When it spits water, close it.
Head over to your skimmer with your bag of DE. If this is a small filter, it takes 8 pounds of DE, if a large one, it takes 10. Charge the system by slowly pouring the DE into the skimmer. It will get deposited on the grids you just cleaned. That's what we want. You're done, when the required amount of DE has been used.
In most cases, you won't have to do this more than once in a season. If you get a lot of very fine debris in the pool, maybe twice.
Other than that, these filters pretty well run themsleves. Replacement parts are still relatively easy to get, although you may have to dig up an Anthony dealer close to you. They seem to becoming a rare breed. In my area anyway.
You likely have a timer hooked up, make sure you're getting at least 12 hours of run time per day and that the clock is set to the correct time. If you have a polaris, this is very important, as the polaris must be synched to the filter timer and only be running when the filter is. If it runs and the filter isn't, you'll burn the shaft seal on the polaris pump. If you have any other questions, just add the details and I'll try to help you.




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Selasa, 25 Maret 2014

Lost Black Soap Dispensing Nozzle for Pressure Washer?




Chet


I have a project coming up tomorrow to pressure wash a very large fence and lost the black chemical nozzle. I have been to 5 different stores with no luck. Is there anyway around this? Can I attach a slip lock fitting and plug it into the end of the wand and then screw in an adjustable nozzle to create more back pressure to dispense the soap? Where the tube fits into the pump it looks like a pressure ball fitting that would need pressure to open the flow. If this were to work I could only find a plastic slip lock fitting. Would this hold up to the pressure or do you think it would break sending my helper to his knees? Any jimmy rig ideas that would last a couple days of spraying? Thanks
I'm sorry missed the most important part!
It is a ExCell ZR2800. Here is a link to it.
http://www.ppe-pressure-washer-parts.com/zr2800-replacement-parts-repair-kits



Answer
It looks like I am a little late to answer your question at the current moment...however if you are looking to still purchase a replacement nozzle here's a great place to buy online: www.sunbritesupply.com

My fav place for my pressure washer.

The thing to know about the chemical injector is that they require a low pressure draw. Actually dropping the pressure is what causes the soap to be sucked up by the tube into the injector. A normal soap tip is a size 40 orifice. Find something close to that and you should be in business.

Well pump is loud and pressure drops?

Q. We bought a house last year and this is our first dealings with well water and septic tanks. Our pump is in the basement (may be original to the 1960's house) and after the water runs for a couple minutes, it cycles on and it is CRAZY loud. Also, when it kicks on, there goes the pressure. Pray that you're the first one to take a shower in the morning. What could the problem be, and how much would it typically cost to fix this (Michigan)? We just installed our clothes washer, and the rinse cycle is taking forever and I fear with the pump on continuously our electric bill is going to go through the roof!
The tank looks original and the StaRite PumpTrol on top looks newer, model SNC-1. The water pressure in the rest of the house has dropped to literally just a trickle since I started the very first load of laundry a few minutes ago.


Answer
Depending on the type of pump you have it sounds like it definitely needs rebuilding at the very least, (like a new impellar, maybe new motor bearings, etc.), or replacement with new. As for the drop in pressure, it's most likely set to cycle on at a 20 lb. pressure and off at 40 lb. That may be ok if it has to kick on to fill the toilet tank at 20 lb., but when you're in the shower it's hardly enough water to rinse off with. I'd address the pump issue first. Have an experienced well guy come check it out, pump, well and all. They can check the well to see if the point is plugged or partially plugged or maybe drawing air, and then make their recommendations. I'm also in MI, SW lower part. If you need more help or a recommendation of people to help email me.




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Jumat, 24 Januari 2014

electric pressure washer fitting broke?

pressure washer pump replacement on 3600psi Pressure Washer Pump. Replacement Pump. Interpump for 13hp ...
pressure washer pump replacement image



bamafansin


I need to order another fitting for it but don't know the exact name for it. Its the plastic peice that i screw my garden hose into that has a quick disconnect on the other end to connect to the pump.


Answer
Since there are a number of different "quick disconnect" coupling systems used by various manufacturers, you need to start by identifying the manufacturer of the pressure washer, if they provided the fitting with the new system, or the fitting manufacturer if the pressure washer manufacturer did not supply the fitting with the pressure washer. The fitting/coupling will likely have a manufacturers name / mark and model / part number on it.

The pressure washer manufacturer will likely have a web site (which you find by using the brand name to find their main web site) that sells replacement parts, but you will need their model number (or be able to identify the unit visually) in order to choose the right unit from which to choose / identify a component.

The garden hose is on the water "supply side" of the pressure washer, should that come up when trying to identify the components.

How do I clean my D.E pool filter?




STEVE A


Closing inground pool for winter. What is the best way to care for the (socks?) filter grids?


Answer
I have a Diatomaceous Earth filter on the pool on my California house. I keep that pool open all year round, but I do clean the DE filters about every 3 months or so. It's actually pretty easy.

-Shutdown the pump and open the cock-valve on top of the filter housing to let the pressure equalize.

-Loosen the clam-shell clamps, remove the bracket and remove the top of the filter housing.

-The filter assembly should be secured by hardware in the center. Remove the hardware (usually a hex nut and lock washer) and lift the entire assembly out of the filter housing. (There may be some resistence due to the o-rings so rock the assembly back and forth as you lift.)

-The filters are pretty easy to clean with just a garden hose. As long as you've always made sure to add DE after each backwash, then the scum should come off the filter nets wihtout too much trouble. If additional cleaning is needed, the filter assembly can be taken apart but it's somewhat difficult to put back together... you'll want 2 or 3 extra hands to reassemble it. I normally just leave it in 1 piece and try to clean it as best I can that way.

-It's a good idea to change the o-rings before your put the filter assembly back into the filter house. Your local pool supply store should have the parts (like Leslie's Pool Supply). Wiping a thin film of vaseline on the o-rings will help it slide back together, but only a THIN film! Any excess will end up in the filter screen.

-Since the screens are totally clean now, make sure to add as much DE as when the filter was new the next time you run the pump.

Getting the screens good and clean from beginning to end would usually take a little less than an hour and two or three beers.

Note: The o-rings I mentioned usually last 2 or 3 years which means yours might just shred as you're taking the filter assembly out. To save time, get replacement o-rings in advance.




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Jumat, 09 Agustus 2013

Where is oil leaking from my 1999 Honda 1100-cc Shadow ACE motorcycle?

pressure washer pump replacement on Karcher+pressure+washer+pump
pressure washer pump replacement image



hevans1944


I bought this ride new in 1999, but after the break-in period I failed to change the oil when due, maybe 4000 miles overdue at 8000 on the odometer. I rode the bike with my wife as a passanger from Dayton, OH to Memphis, TN and from Dayton to Virginia Beach, VA traveling mostly on the Interstate at 70 to 80 mph. When I finally remembered to change the oil, it came out very black. After the oil and filter change it began slowly leaking. I replaced the washer on the drain plug, drained and re-filled the oil again, making sure the filter gasket had a film of oil on it before tightening it, but it still leaked. Near as I can tell, it may be leaking at the oil pump gasket. I rode for awhile with four quarts of replacement oil in the saddle bags, but now I don't know if it would make it ten miles to the dealer for repairs. Service manual says removal of the sub-frame and a bunch of other parts is necessary to gain access to remove the oil pump. Any suggestions before I do this?


Answer
If there are no visible signs of oil leak such as n the ground where you leave maybe it is being used by a worn motor or because the rings are worn crankcase pressure is forcing the oil out the filler hole

electric pressure washer fitting broke?




bamafansin


I need to order another fitting for it but don't know the exact name for it. Its the plastic peice that i screw my garden hose into that has a quick disconnect on the other end to connect to the pump.


Answer
Since there are a number of different "quick disconnect" coupling systems used by various manufacturers, you need to start by identifying the manufacturer of the pressure washer, if they provided the fitting with the new system, or the fitting manufacturer if the pressure washer manufacturer did not supply the fitting with the pressure washer. The fitting/coupling will likely have a manufacturers name / mark and model / part number on it.

The pressure washer manufacturer will likely have a web site (which you find by using the brand name to find their main web site) that sells replacement parts, but you will need their model number (or be able to identify the unit visually) in order to choose the right unit from which to choose / identify a component.

The garden hose is on the water "supply side" of the pressure washer, should that come up when trying to identify the components.




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Kamis, 08 Agustus 2013

What should a full service on a 2002 Audi A4 TDi consist of?

pressure washer pump replacement on Karcher+pressure+washer+pump
pressure washer pump replacement image



Teddy Teds


a really good service


Answer
Mileage?

Assuming 15,000 mi a year= Total: 150,000 (aprox. 250,000 kms):

CHASSIS, BODY, ACCESSORIES (PREVENTIVE):

1) Electronic Test for Brakes, ESP, Restraint Systems, Accessories, HVAC (V.A.G. Scan tool).
2) Brakes:
-Check Pads, Rotors, Brake Lines for all wheels.
-Master Cylinder testing/replacement.
-Brake Calipers check/overhaul.
-Parking Brake System check.
-Brake Fluid change (Recomended every year).
-ABS/ESP system check/testing/test drive.
-Wheel Speed Sensors cleaning/testing.

2) Steering:
-Tie Rod Ends check/replacement.
-Servo System check.

3) Suspension:
-Tires check.
-Ball Joints check.
-Rubber Mounts check.
-Shock Absorbers check.

4) Body and Accessories:
-Check Main Frame for rust, deformation, damaged paint.
-Check Lights, Wipers & Washer, Rear view Mirrors.
-Check Doors, Windows, Seats.
-Change Cab Filter.


TRANSMISSION AND DRIVE TRAIN (PREVENTIVE):

1) Electronic Test for A/T and Quattro (when fitted) (V.A.G. Scan tool).
2) Automatic Transmission Box:
-Test Drive.
-Check for leaks, replace main seals. Check hose lines.
-Fluid change with Filter (Even when fitted with "lifetime fluid") (Every 60,000 mi. or 100,000 kms).

3) Drive Train:
-Differential(s) leak check.
-Differential(s) Gear Oil change (Every 60,000 mi. or 100,000 kms).
-Drive Axles (and quattro's main shaft) check/repair.
-Wheel Bearings check.


ENGINE (PREVENTIVE 250,000 kms):

1) Electronic Test (V.A.G. Scan tool).
2) Fuel System and Intake System preventive job:
-Diesel Injectors ultrasound cleaning and testing (Diesel Lab) (Every 100,000 or 150,000 kms).
-High Pressure Fuel Pump testing/overhaul/replacement (Diesel Lab).
-Turbocharger testing/overhaul/replacement (Diesel Lab).
-Low Pressure Fuel Pump testing.
-Fuel Tank cleaning (Recomended).
-Fuel Lines cleaning (Recomended).
-Diesel Filter replacement (Recomended twice a year).
-Intake Conducts and EGR system cleaning (include Intercooler and Intake Piping) (Recomended).
-Engine Air Filter replacement.
-Glow Plugs replacement (Recomended every 60,000 mi. or 100,000 kms) (Use Anti-Seize Compound).

3) Engine Cooling preventive job:
-Engine Coolant Pump check/replacement.
-Thermostat replacement (Recomended every 60,000 mi. or 100,000 kms).
-Coolant Deposit Tank Cap replacement (Recomended every 60,000 mi. or 100,000 kms).
-Coolant Deposit Tank and Coolant Lines inspection (No cracks, no toasting, no shred).
-Radiator cleaning or flushing (Recomended every 60,000 mi. or 100,000 kms).
-Coolant Chambers and Coolant Lines cleaning or flushing (maybe just system flushing) (Recomended every 60,000 mi. or 100,000 kms).
-Engine Coolant change (Recomended every year).

4) Engine Mechanical preventive job:
-Cylinder Compression testing (NOT OK: Full Cylinder Head job)
-Engine Oil Pump testing.
-Timing Belt replacement with roll bearings and gaskets (Every 50,000 mi. or 80,000 kms).
-Engine Oil change with Filter (every 3,000 to 6,000 mi. or 5,000 to 10,000 kms).

Where is oil leaking from my 1999 Honda 1100-cc Shadow ACE motorcycle?




hevans1944


I bought this ride new in 1999, but after the break-in period I failed to change the oil when due, maybe 4000 miles overdue at 8000 on the odometer. I rode the bike with my wife as a passanger from Dayton, OH to Memphis, TN and from Dayton to Virginia Beach, VA traveling mostly on the Interstate at 70 to 80 mph. When I finally remembered to change the oil, it came out very black. After the oil and filter change it began slowly leaking. I replaced the washer on the drain plug, drained and re-filled the oil again, making sure the filter gasket had a film of oil on it before tightening it, but it still leaked. Near as I can tell, it may be leaking at the oil pump gasket. I rode for awhile with four quarts of replacement oil in the saddle bags, but now I don't know if it would make it ten miles to the dealer for repairs. Service manual says removal of the sub-frame and a bunch of other parts is necessary to gain access to remove the oil pump. Any suggestions before I do this?


Answer
If there are no visible signs of oil leak such as n the ground where you leave maybe it is being used by a worn motor or because the rings are worn crankcase pressure is forcing the oil out the filler hole




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