pressure washer hose repair image
Leen
I had a leak in my brake line, so I changed the hose and bled all of the brakes. Now its not tightening up I can push the brake all the way to the floor. Any tips?
94 Honda accord
Kb that's not a stupid question at all. I forgot to include that yes I did put fluid in
Answer
I have a possibility.
When you bled the brakes...did you also bleed the master cylinder first?? before cracking the bleeder valves at all 4 corners ?
Before you bleed the brake lines out. You also must bleed out the master cylinder before, bleeding the lines. Then you reconnect the brake lines to the master cylinder and then, bleed out the brakes at the bleeder valves.
It seems like a silly thing to have to do BUT it's a necessary step. If air gets trapped inside the master cylinder then it can't produce enough pressure to pressurize the lines. And then the petal just goes to the floor. You can bleed out the lines as much as you can but the petal still goes straight to the floor because there's air still trapped inside of the master cylinder. That air just keeps getting recycled over and over inside and doesn't escape the main chamber.
I've done this repair before. Bleeding out the master cylinder solves the pressure problem.
Another thing that you have to look out for is the torque of the fittings for the hose couplings. Many times you'll wind up replacing the line that runs from the hose to the master cylinder. Because it leaks fluid at that fitting on the end of the hose.
(If you haven't done it) You will also have to replace the copper seal that goes in between the hose and the brake caliper. It looks like a copper "washer" but it's actually a seal for the caliper. Fluid will leak out there if the copper seal ("washer" looking seal) is not replaced. I found this out the "hard way".
I have a possibility.
When you bled the brakes...did you also bleed the master cylinder first?? before cracking the bleeder valves at all 4 corners ?
Before you bleed the brake lines out. You also must bleed out the master cylinder before, bleeding the lines. Then you reconnect the brake lines to the master cylinder and then, bleed out the brakes at the bleeder valves.
It seems like a silly thing to have to do BUT it's a necessary step. If air gets trapped inside the master cylinder then it can't produce enough pressure to pressurize the lines. And then the petal just goes to the floor. You can bleed out the lines as much as you can but the petal still goes straight to the floor because there's air still trapped inside of the master cylinder. That air just keeps getting recycled over and over inside and doesn't escape the main chamber.
I've done this repair before. Bleeding out the master cylinder solves the pressure problem.
Another thing that you have to look out for is the torque of the fittings for the hose couplings. Many times you'll wind up replacing the line that runs from the hose to the master cylinder. Because it leaks fluid at that fitting on the end of the hose.
(If you haven't done it) You will also have to replace the copper seal that goes in between the hose and the brake caliper. It looks like a copper "washer" but it's actually a seal for the caliper. Fluid will leak out there if the copper seal ("washer" looking seal) is not replaced. I found this out the "hard way".
how does a washing machine regulate the water that is added?
SwordDance
i mean, what kind of device does a washing machine use. does it measure the water like a flometer or what?
Answer
My Maytag uses a simple manometer. As water in the basket rises, some of it enters and compresses the air in a vertical tube. The air pressure operates a spring-loaded switch that allows the depth of the water to be adjusted. More pressure on the spring translates to more pressure required to trip the switch and stop the water flow into the tub, hence more water in the tub. Sometimes (like every fifteen or twenty years) the hose gets detached from the manometer switch, or the hose starts leaking and the tub will no longer fill to the proper level. This is an easy do-it-yourself repair on my washer. Your mileage may vary.
My Maytag uses a simple manometer. As water in the basket rises, some of it enters and compresses the air in a vertical tube. The air pressure operates a spring-loaded switch that allows the depth of the water to be adjusted. More pressure on the spring translates to more pressure required to trip the switch and stop the water flow into the tub, hence more water in the tub. Sometimes (like every fifteen or twenty years) the hose gets detached from the manometer switch, or the hose starts leaking and the tub will no longer fill to the proper level. This is an easy do-it-yourself repair on my washer. Your mileage may vary.
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