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pressure washer 9 hp image
kbello22
What do i need to do to convert my 1991 chevy 350 c1500 tbi to carb? i am looking into buying a edelbrock power package for my truck. the kit comes with a carb and a intake manifold along with cam and cylinder heads. the kit is supposed to make 410hp. What do i need to do to make this carb work properly on my truck. Email me with any other questions. kbello22@yahoo.com
thanks for the help about the Edelbrock package. i will look into the parts you listed for me. i do have another question. With a carb will my computer work correctly? will my plugs still fire correctly?i am ignorant of the computer in my truck. it is a 1991 k1500 chevy single cab stepside. i just put a 2500$ paint job on it. I have hedman headers, dynomax hi flow cats, and flowmater super 44s. true duals with 3inch pipe. any other input and critisizems would be great!
also let me mention i am 17 and this is the first rebuild i have done completely myself. my godfather owns a transmission shop. my uncle builds and races quicksixteen dragsters. i work with a few people who build motors all the time. help on the project is very easy to get. i want to make sure all parts work together. thats the main reason i was going to use the edelbrock kit. if all the parts in a motor dont work together i am spinning my wheels. Everyones help is appreciated!!!
Answer
****EDIT***
No your computer will not work or be needed. With a carb, you are ditching the EFI stuff and making the engine/truck like a pre EFI one of the 60's, 70's etc.
In '91 the computer controlled fuel and timing.
You will need a $90 HEI dist. That takes care of the spark side. The carb and fuel pressure reg. takes care of fuel side.
Your gauges, and other stuff will work just like norm, with one expetion. If you have an elec cooling fan, the temp switch that turns fan on it ran through the computer.
You will need to wire fan up to a norm temp switch, toggel switch or straight wire it to 12volts switched so it runs when the key is turned on.
***EDIT OFF***
Doesnt matter if it's man. or auto trans. The swap is the same.
You will need an HEI large cap dizzy. Look on summitracing.com for part # SUM-850001R $90
To hook this up, you just run a 12 volt switched wire to the term marked "BATT" on the dizzy. If you have a tach (rpm gauge) hook it's wire to the "TACH" term on dizzy.
Now you also need to do something about the fuel pump. The EFI pumps puts out 30-45 psi. Carbs can only take 5-7 psi (edelbrock only likes 5.5 psi max) More than that and the pressure will hold needles open all the time, causing it to flood out all the time
So you will need a mallory or other brand high pressure adjustable fuel pressaure reg. This mallory one works great for the swap. Look on summitracing.com for part #MAA-4309
Nowon the top end kit. I'm not a big fan of those. 1st off you will NOT get the power they say. Read the fine print for the 2098 kit you want.
Dyno engine was a GM performance parts ZZ4 crate which already made 355 HP @ 5250 and 405 ft lbs @ 3500.. Had 10:1 compression with the 58cc heads and 9.5:1 with the edelbrock 64cc heads.
Dont come with a carb, timing chain set, rocker arms, etc
The cam in that kit is massive for a street car, plus old tech. 308/318* adv duration, 234/244* @.050", Alot of duration with only a whimpy .488"/.510" lift.
Your engine has about 9.2:1 compression, in a heavy truck. You need much less cam than that. More like 216/228* @.050". That will give you ,ore low and midrange torque.
Next the price is high for what you get. $1800
I would buy part by part and it would be better matched to your truck, and cheaper
Heres what I would do and parts I would use, and place I would buy from.
Patriot performance alum heads. The flow right up there with the edelbrock heads, if not a tad better $895
http://www.competitionproducts.com/prodinfo.asp?number=PAT2181
Fel pro 1094 4.100" x .015" head gaskets $40 for both http://www.competitionproducts.com/prodinfo.asp?number=F1094
Full gasket kit, head, intake, timing cover, valve covers, oil pan, etc etc (just don't use the head gaskets, use the 1094s to gain compression) $24
http://www.competitionproducts.com/prodinfo.asp?number=RB31000
ARP head bolts $62 http://www.competitionproducts.com/prodinfo.asp?number=134-3601
For intake, timing cover bolts if you wan t new ones go to local hardware store, ace, home depot, etc asnd buy them. 3/8" course thread x 1" long threads for intake, 84 cents to $1.50, 12 washers for said bolts 50 cents. Timing cover bolts 1/4" corse thread x 3/8" long and star washers $2 bucks or less
Elgin cam and lifter set, 282/294* adv, 216/228* @.050", 453"/.480" lift, 112 LSA
$90 http://www.competitionproducts.com/prodinfo.asp?number=E1166M
Crosswinds intake (same style as the rpm air gap) $166 http://www.competitionproducts.com/prodinfo.asp?number=52026
Edeblbrock 600cfm elec choke carb $286 http://www.competitionproducts.com/prodinfo.asp?number=1406
Total so far $1570 and already more parts than the eddy top end kit had with its $1800 price tag
Push rods $30 http://www.competitionproducts.com/prodinfo.asp?number=1011
Double roller timing chain set $20 http://www.competitionproducts.com/prodinfo.asp?number=C3023X
Scorpion 1.5 ratio alum. full roller rocker arms $205 http://www.competitionproducts.com/prodinfo.asp?number=S153
Now you will need std older style valve covers to fit those heads. I won't list those due to style is a persnol thing but range from $20 to 100.. Most nice chrome ones are 30-35 bucks so thats the asmount I'll use to get total price
So at $1855 now and you have alot better parts, more parts an only 55 bucks more than that top end kit. Heck you got the alum roller rockers, carb, tming set, valve covers, pushrods extra or "free" if you want to think of it that away
****EDIT***
No your computer will not work or be needed. With a carb, you are ditching the EFI stuff and making the engine/truck like a pre EFI one of the 60's, 70's etc.
In '91 the computer controlled fuel and timing.
You will need a $90 HEI dist. That takes care of the spark side. The carb and fuel pressure reg. takes care of fuel side.
Your gauges, and other stuff will work just like norm, with one expetion. If you have an elec cooling fan, the temp switch that turns fan on it ran through the computer.
You will need to wire fan up to a norm temp switch, toggel switch or straight wire it to 12volts switched so it runs when the key is turned on.
***EDIT OFF***
Doesnt matter if it's man. or auto trans. The swap is the same.
You will need an HEI large cap dizzy. Look on summitracing.com for part # SUM-850001R $90
To hook this up, you just run a 12 volt switched wire to the term marked "BATT" on the dizzy. If you have a tach (rpm gauge) hook it's wire to the "TACH" term on dizzy.
Now you also need to do something about the fuel pump. The EFI pumps puts out 30-45 psi. Carbs can only take 5-7 psi (edelbrock only likes 5.5 psi max) More than that and the pressure will hold needles open all the time, causing it to flood out all the time
So you will need a mallory or other brand high pressure adjustable fuel pressaure reg. This mallory one works great for the swap. Look on summitracing.com for part #MAA-4309
Nowon the top end kit. I'm not a big fan of those. 1st off you will NOT get the power they say. Read the fine print for the 2098 kit you want.
Dyno engine was a GM performance parts ZZ4 crate which already made 355 HP @ 5250 and 405 ft lbs @ 3500.. Had 10:1 compression with the 58cc heads and 9.5:1 with the edelbrock 64cc heads.
Dont come with a carb, timing chain set, rocker arms, etc
The cam in that kit is massive for a street car, plus old tech. 308/318* adv duration, 234/244* @.050", Alot of duration with only a whimpy .488"/.510" lift.
Your engine has about 9.2:1 compression, in a heavy truck. You need much less cam than that. More like 216/228* @.050". That will give you ,ore low and midrange torque.
Next the price is high for what you get. $1800
I would buy part by part and it would be better matched to your truck, and cheaper
Heres what I would do and parts I would use, and place I would buy from.
Patriot performance alum heads. The flow right up there with the edelbrock heads, if not a tad better $895
http://www.competitionproducts.com/prodinfo.asp?number=PAT2181
Fel pro 1094 4.100" x .015" head gaskets $40 for both http://www.competitionproducts.com/prodinfo.asp?number=F1094
Full gasket kit, head, intake, timing cover, valve covers, oil pan, etc etc (just don't use the head gaskets, use the 1094s to gain compression) $24
http://www.competitionproducts.com/prodinfo.asp?number=RB31000
ARP head bolts $62 http://www.competitionproducts.com/prodinfo.asp?number=134-3601
For intake, timing cover bolts if you wan t new ones go to local hardware store, ace, home depot, etc asnd buy them. 3/8" course thread x 1" long threads for intake, 84 cents to $1.50, 12 washers for said bolts 50 cents. Timing cover bolts 1/4" corse thread x 3/8" long and star washers $2 bucks or less
Elgin cam and lifter set, 282/294* adv, 216/228* @.050", 453"/.480" lift, 112 LSA
$90 http://www.competitionproducts.com/prodinfo.asp?number=E1166M
Crosswinds intake (same style as the rpm air gap) $166 http://www.competitionproducts.com/prodinfo.asp?number=52026
Edeblbrock 600cfm elec choke carb $286 http://www.competitionproducts.com/prodinfo.asp?number=1406
Total so far $1570 and already more parts than the eddy top end kit had with its $1800 price tag
Push rods $30 http://www.competitionproducts.com/prodinfo.asp?number=1011
Double roller timing chain set $20 http://www.competitionproducts.com/prodinfo.asp?number=C3023X
Scorpion 1.5 ratio alum. full roller rocker arms $205 http://www.competitionproducts.com/prodinfo.asp?number=S153
Now you will need std older style valve covers to fit those heads. I won't list those due to style is a persnol thing but range from $20 to 100.. Most nice chrome ones are 30-35 bucks so thats the asmount I'll use to get total price
So at $1855 now and you have alot better parts, more parts an only 55 bucks more than that top end kit. Heck you got the alum roller rockers, carb, tming set, valve covers, pushrods extra or "free" if you want to think of it that away
Craftsman Lawn Mower with Tecumseh 5.5 running poorly after tune up. Any ideas?
randysoby
I was given a Craftsman Eager 1 mower with a 5.5 HP Tecumseh engine that is probably 10 or 12 years old. It sat and wasn't started for about 4 years.
I drained the gas and topped it off with fresh fuel, changed the spark plug, oil and air filter. When I tried to start it the pull rope would stop half way and occasionally attempt to rip my fingers off by recoiling.
I read online that there is a pin on the shaft that could be bent.
I pulled the spark plug and the cord pulled perfectly.
Hmmmmmmm.
I installed the spark plug and she fired right up . After a few stop and starts the rope is pulling with ease.
My problem is that when it is running it cant hold a full throttle. Here is a 9 second video that will explain:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zd2CprG87YM
On the advice of a friend I pulled the carb (plastic) and inspected it. It looked perfect and the float works freely. I didn't have any carb cleaner handy but I did clean a long thin hole with a wire from a wire brush just to make sure it wasn't clogged. After reassembly it started with ease but idled poorly. Any other ideas? Thank you in advance.
I took the mower apart and everything looked fine. Any other ideas?
http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll106/rsoby/IMAG0693.jpg
http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll106/rsoby/IMAG0694.jpg
Answer
WALK-BEHIND MOWER SOLUTION
the reason you friend gave you this mower was because of this very problem. This is a classic case of flywheel shear-pin (key-way) breakage.
What is a shear-pin?
Briggs & Stratton engines have a shear-pin that is a small ½ inch by 1/8 inch aluminum pin that protects the crankshaft from damage. The pin is located in a slot between the flywheel and the crankshaft. This shear-pin might be bent or broken and will need to be replaced.
You need to remove the covering (shroud) and the fuel tank. Next off comes the pull-cord assembly. This reveals the flywheel, held on by a large 15/16th nut. To remove this nut you need to keep the flywheel from turning. To do this you will need to secure the flywheel. Strap a good leather belt round the flywheel, and, allowing the buckle to rest against a small block of wood against the ignition coil assembly (it works for me). Using a long breaker-bar with either a ½ or ¾ inch square set to fit the 15/16th socket to the flywheel nut. Have someone help you to hold the mower. Turn the nut and remove the nut and washer. Do not loose the nut or washer!
Next, you have to remove the flywheel itself. Here is the trick. You need to hire, beg, borrow, or, dare I say it, steal a large bearing a puller. Fit the three-legged puller over the flywheel. The flywheel is not going to come off easily without some assistance.
Two things you can do here.
1) Now, with pressure on the flywheel, sharply tap the top of the puller.
2) Using a small blowlamp, heat the flywheel to expand the metal, and this helps the puller to remove the flywheel from the crankshaft. Either way works well. Remove the flywheel and you either will see the shear-pin attached to the crankshaftâs groove or stuck to the flywheel.
I am going to assume you have purchased a new (I always have two handy) shear-pin from your local small engine repair store. The will cost in the region of $2.50 and look rather expensive for what they are.
To clear any rust from the flywheel, polish the flywheel inner hole. Using some very fine (preferably used) emery cloth, clean the crankshaft. Using a gas soaked rag, wipe away all traces of emery dust from both the crankshaft and the flywheel. Smear a little grease on the crankshaft and then refit the flywheel, remembering to line up the crankshaft slot with the flywheel slot. Place the new shear-pin into the slot and, using a small punch, or if you donât have one, a long 4" nail comes in handy, tap the shear-pin down until it seats fully
home.
Replace the nut and washer and tighten to 65 foot lbs. Refit all other removed items, and start he mower.
Happy mowing
WALK-BEHIND MOWER SOLUTION
the reason you friend gave you this mower was because of this very problem. This is a classic case of flywheel shear-pin (key-way) breakage.
What is a shear-pin?
Briggs & Stratton engines have a shear-pin that is a small ½ inch by 1/8 inch aluminum pin that protects the crankshaft from damage. The pin is located in a slot between the flywheel and the crankshaft. This shear-pin might be bent or broken and will need to be replaced.
You need to remove the covering (shroud) and the fuel tank. Next off comes the pull-cord assembly. This reveals the flywheel, held on by a large 15/16th nut. To remove this nut you need to keep the flywheel from turning. To do this you will need to secure the flywheel. Strap a good leather belt round the flywheel, and, allowing the buckle to rest against a small block of wood against the ignition coil assembly (it works for me). Using a long breaker-bar with either a ½ or ¾ inch square set to fit the 15/16th socket to the flywheel nut. Have someone help you to hold the mower. Turn the nut and remove the nut and washer. Do not loose the nut or washer!
Next, you have to remove the flywheel itself. Here is the trick. You need to hire, beg, borrow, or, dare I say it, steal a large bearing a puller. Fit the three-legged puller over the flywheel. The flywheel is not going to come off easily without some assistance.
Two things you can do here.
1) Now, with pressure on the flywheel, sharply tap the top of the puller.
2) Using a small blowlamp, heat the flywheel to expand the metal, and this helps the puller to remove the flywheel from the crankshaft. Either way works well. Remove the flywheel and you either will see the shear-pin attached to the crankshaftâs groove or stuck to the flywheel.
I am going to assume you have purchased a new (I always have two handy) shear-pin from your local small engine repair store. The will cost in the region of $2.50 and look rather expensive for what they are.
To clear any rust from the flywheel, polish the flywheel inner hole. Using some very fine (preferably used) emery cloth, clean the crankshaft. Using a gas soaked rag, wipe away all traces of emery dust from both the crankshaft and the flywheel. Smear a little grease on the crankshaft and then refit the flywheel, remembering to line up the crankshaft slot with the flywheel slot. Place the new shear-pin into the slot and, using a small punch, or if you donât have one, a long 4" nail comes in handy, tap the shear-pin down until it seats fully
home.
Replace the nut and washer and tighten to 65 foot lbs. Refit all other removed items, and start he mower.
Happy mowing
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