virgo63
Answer
Not specifically for pet stain but general cleaning tips for trex decking.
Problem Solution
Dirt and Debris Clean deck to remove dirt and debris. Soap, hot water and a stiff bristle brush are all that is needed.
Chalk Markings All colored chalk lines are permanent except white. We suggest using white chalk or baby powder. Scrubbing the area with hot soapy water with bleach may dislodge some of the chalk.
Visible Mill Markings The mill markings on the side of Trex decking boards are required by building codes. With careful installation, most mill markings can be hidden. Visible mill markings can be lightened with acetone.
Water Spots/Leaf Staining/Wood Tannins Tannin leaching occurs in Trex and all wood based products naturally. Allow for at least 16 weeks of normal weathering. This process may be hastened through the use of a product containing oxalic or phosphoric acid.
Pigment Staining During the weathering process, a small amount of surface pigmentation may wash off of the Trex surface, which may discolor neighboring surfaces. Remove with common rust cleaner.
Ice and Snow Calcium chloride or rock salt, available in many home centers, will melt ice on Trex decking. Rinse off when first practical.
Rust Stains, Ground-In Dirt and Grime Use a cleaning product containing oxalic or phosphoric acid base to lighten or remove the rust or dirt. Product may need to sit on stain 10-15 minutes.
Oil and Grease Stains Scrub in a household-degreasing agent as soon as the stain occurs. Rinse with hot water. For more severe stains call 1-800-BUY-TREX.
Berries and Wine Stains Mix bleach into hot water according to the bleach-packaging label. Scrub the stain lightly and rinse thoroughly. The stain may not disappear entirely.
Ink Stains Inks may be permanent. However, the stain may be lightened by scrubbing with hot soapy water. Rinse thoroughly.
Mold Use conventional deck washes or cleaners that contain sodium hypochlorite (bleach) and detergent (refer to Mold Technical Bulletin).
Treat with PSC Composite DeckAfterKlean (www.psc-solutions.com) to delay regrowth.
Periodic cleaning of your deck, even if it appears clean, is important to prevent the build-up of pollen/debris that can cause mold.
Pressure Washer Trex does not recommend the use of a pressure washer. The use of a pressure washer with a greater than 1,500 PSI and/or applied closer than 10" from the deck surface could damage the decking surface and result in a loss of warranty coverage.
Sanding Trex does not recommend sanding. Sanding will change the appearance of the surface of Trex material.
Not specifically for pet stain but general cleaning tips for trex decking.
Problem Solution
Dirt and Debris Clean deck to remove dirt and debris. Soap, hot water and a stiff bristle brush are all that is needed.
Chalk Markings All colored chalk lines are permanent except white. We suggest using white chalk or baby powder. Scrubbing the area with hot soapy water with bleach may dislodge some of the chalk.
Visible Mill Markings The mill markings on the side of Trex decking boards are required by building codes. With careful installation, most mill markings can be hidden. Visible mill markings can be lightened with acetone.
Water Spots/Leaf Staining/Wood Tannins Tannin leaching occurs in Trex and all wood based products naturally. Allow for at least 16 weeks of normal weathering. This process may be hastened through the use of a product containing oxalic or phosphoric acid.
Pigment Staining During the weathering process, a small amount of surface pigmentation may wash off of the Trex surface, which may discolor neighboring surfaces. Remove with common rust cleaner.
Ice and Snow Calcium chloride or rock salt, available in many home centers, will melt ice on Trex decking. Rinse off when first practical.
Rust Stains, Ground-In Dirt and Grime Use a cleaning product containing oxalic or phosphoric acid base to lighten or remove the rust or dirt. Product may need to sit on stain 10-15 minutes.
Oil and Grease Stains Scrub in a household-degreasing agent as soon as the stain occurs. Rinse with hot water. For more severe stains call 1-800-BUY-TREX.
Berries and Wine Stains Mix bleach into hot water according to the bleach-packaging label. Scrub the stain lightly and rinse thoroughly. The stain may not disappear entirely.
Ink Stains Inks may be permanent. However, the stain may be lightened by scrubbing with hot soapy water. Rinse thoroughly.
Mold Use conventional deck washes or cleaners that contain sodium hypochlorite (bleach) and detergent (refer to Mold Technical Bulletin).
Treat with PSC Composite DeckAfterKlean (www.psc-solutions.com) to delay regrowth.
Periodic cleaning of your deck, even if it appears clean, is important to prevent the build-up of pollen/debris that can cause mold.
Pressure Washer Trex does not recommend the use of a pressure washer. The use of a pressure washer with a greater than 1,500 PSI and/or applied closer than 10" from the deck surface could damage the decking surface and result in a loss of warranty coverage.
Sanding Trex does not recommend sanding. Sanding will change the appearance of the surface of Trex material.
71 elcamino 383 510-488-262duration cam 144 blower th400 msd ignition want to change gears currently 4.56?
mark d
Iam running about a 2000 stall pulls a little when you put it in gear want to go to a gearset that will pin you in the seat a little and get a little better gas mileage currently get about 4.5 if your easy on it. Set up with 6psi boost on 8.1-1 pistons small valve heads casting date 1970 supposed to from a camaro. Any clue on what kind of h.p. 750 edelbrock carb mandrel bent pipe,headers and flowmasters
Answer
Your 4.56's are running the engine out of breath on the top end.. That combo aint gonna make power in the higher RPMs where the 4.56's will put you crossing the traps.
You have a mild cam'ed, 383 stroker with a small blower... Your engine is making the torque.. No need to try to do it with gears.
Your best gears will probbly be 3.42's to tell you the truth.. I would need alittle more info to be 100% sure though.. Like your rear tire size, and all the specs on that 262* cam (adv. duration, duration at .050", lope sep angle)
The 4.56's you have now will "pin you in the seat" the hardest on launch than any other gear, but it's killing your top end (putting rpms past the rpm where your HP peaks at) and also killing your fuel mileage.
If it's not "pining you in the seat" now, then you have some slight probs in tuning. Or your just boiling the tires off, no traction, just spinning hard.
I would also go higher on the stall.. That combo sounds like it needs 400-800 rpm more stall.. So a 2400-2800 stall converter.
Hows your tuning?
I love the edebrock carbs. I been running them and carter AFB (same carb as edelbrock) for the past 8 years..
Out of the box they have a few probs that needs to be fix though..
If you noticed the engine trying to die during hard braking or cornering.. Or a bog when you hit the throttle..
It's the floats not adjusted right.. Out of the box most was set wrong.. You need to adjust them to 7/16" at rest, and 15/16" to 1" drop.
The pump arm linkage need to be in the top hole as well.
The other major thing with them is fuel pressure.. 5.5 psi is max the needles can handle.. Over that and the pressure bounces the needles off the seats and trys to flood carb some.. Use an adjustable fuel reg inline with supply line and set pressure to 5.0 to 5.5 psi (I run mine at 5.25)
In most performance engines the step up springs needs to be changed out too.. The 7" HG pink springs work good in alot of set ups...
You really need to get your vac level though to see what springs you need though.
Also carb jetting.. Hows yours running.. Rich, lean? Your spark plugs are the best thing to let you know.. Read your plugs and jet till plugs shows you are just right.
What spark plugs are you running? I belive 1970 chevy heads still used gasket seat, not taper seat plugs.... So you will need the spark plugs with the large 13/16" wrenching hex, not the 5/8" hex and a washer type gasket on the plugs.. If you run AC delco plugs the # with be R4-S... The blank spot is the heat range..
Most roots blown engines will need atleast 1 step colder plug.. So an R44S ac delco plug or maybe 2 steps colder R43S.
Whats your timing like? The boost will cause detonation quicker on pump fuel, so you may have to pull alittle timing out. Try 34* total to start with.
Also set your timing curve so full mech advance is fully in at 3,000 rpm
Your 4.56's are running the engine out of breath on the top end.. That combo aint gonna make power in the higher RPMs where the 4.56's will put you crossing the traps.
You have a mild cam'ed, 383 stroker with a small blower... Your engine is making the torque.. No need to try to do it with gears.
Your best gears will probbly be 3.42's to tell you the truth.. I would need alittle more info to be 100% sure though.. Like your rear tire size, and all the specs on that 262* cam (adv. duration, duration at .050", lope sep angle)
The 4.56's you have now will "pin you in the seat" the hardest on launch than any other gear, but it's killing your top end (putting rpms past the rpm where your HP peaks at) and also killing your fuel mileage.
If it's not "pining you in the seat" now, then you have some slight probs in tuning. Or your just boiling the tires off, no traction, just spinning hard.
I would also go higher on the stall.. That combo sounds like it needs 400-800 rpm more stall.. So a 2400-2800 stall converter.
Hows your tuning?
I love the edebrock carbs. I been running them and carter AFB (same carb as edelbrock) for the past 8 years..
Out of the box they have a few probs that needs to be fix though..
If you noticed the engine trying to die during hard braking or cornering.. Or a bog when you hit the throttle..
It's the floats not adjusted right.. Out of the box most was set wrong.. You need to adjust them to 7/16" at rest, and 15/16" to 1" drop.
The pump arm linkage need to be in the top hole as well.
The other major thing with them is fuel pressure.. 5.5 psi is max the needles can handle.. Over that and the pressure bounces the needles off the seats and trys to flood carb some.. Use an adjustable fuel reg inline with supply line and set pressure to 5.0 to 5.5 psi (I run mine at 5.25)
In most performance engines the step up springs needs to be changed out too.. The 7" HG pink springs work good in alot of set ups...
You really need to get your vac level though to see what springs you need though.
Also carb jetting.. Hows yours running.. Rich, lean? Your spark plugs are the best thing to let you know.. Read your plugs and jet till plugs shows you are just right.
What spark plugs are you running? I belive 1970 chevy heads still used gasket seat, not taper seat plugs.... So you will need the spark plugs with the large 13/16" wrenching hex, not the 5/8" hex and a washer type gasket on the plugs.. If you run AC delco plugs the # with be R4-S... The blank spot is the heat range..
Most roots blown engines will need atleast 1 step colder plug.. So an R44S ac delco plug or maybe 2 steps colder R43S.
Whats your timing like? The boost will cause detonation quicker on pump fuel, so you may have to pull alittle timing out. Try 34* total to start with.
Also set your timing curve so full mech advance is fully in at 3,000 rpm
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