Rabu, 09 April 2014

Help my Karcher pressure washer nozzle is stuck.?




it's me


You are just supposed to be able to turn it by hand. It's not a high powered pressure washer just one for around home. The motor runs fine, I can't figure out how to change to the other nozzle -- seems to be it's frozen up. I can't turn this one -- I'm afraid to use any tools lest I break it.


Answer
Some pressure washers have a wand that can deflect the spray into a wide pattern or into a pinpoint spray. Others (like mine) have interchangeable tips. To remove them you have to slide the locking collar back and pull the tip out. Then pull the collar back and insert the nozzle you want. Since I'm not sure about your unit, perhaps your locking collar has a built-in safety feature that won't allow that collar to slide unless it's rotated into a certain position. You MIGHT want to try that.

Hope this helps.

'av'a g'day mate.

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Pressure Washer For Car!?




Krezyboy96


I have a BMW 335i sedan which i want to buy a pressure washer for, to make car washes much easier. I don't know which one to buy. I want an electric power washer with around 1500 PSI and a spot to put the soap for the car for under 150$, any suggestions????


Answer
Check into Karcher residential pressure washers and AR's (Annovi Reverberi) line called "Blue Clean." This will give you several options in your price range. Here is a little more information about washing your car with a pressure washer:

1500 is perfect for washing a car. Much more pressure and you will mess up your paint job. I included a source that is a forum of people talking about their car washes, so you can see that this is actually what most of them run their car washes at. Keep in mind that electric units are less portable. They are quieter and do not put out fumes, but most manufacturers state that to use an extension cord with an electric pressure washer would cause it to burn out. Here is more information to consider:

GPM- Gallons Per Minute. This is the flow rate of your machine. You will want a good amount of water coming out to rinse your car. I'll include a link to another forum where people discuss this. I would think anywhere from 2-4 would be good for your purposes.

Direct Drive or Belt Drive- In a direct drive unit, the shaft coming out of the engine is connected directly to the pump, while a belt drive unit will use a system of belts and pulleys to connect the motor and pump. The direct drive unit might be simpler, but the advantage of a belt drive unit is that, by using a larger pulley at the pump, the pump will be able to operate at a lower RPM than the motor, thus prolonging it's life. So why would you get a direct drive unit? It is way cheaper. The general rule of thumb is that if you are going to use the unit more that 20 hours a week consistently, then spring for the belt drive model; if, however, you will be using it less, save your money and get a direct drive.

Get a water filter- Not all units will come with a filter. You should make sure to have one on the inlet side of the pump. This will prevent any sediment or small solid from being able to get into your machine and damage your pump.

Auto Start/Stop- If you do go with an electric unit, you will have the option of getting one with auto start/stop. This means that when the trigger is pulled that the unit will turn on, and when it is released, the unit will turn off. This is good because pressure washers cannot be left on for more than 30 seconds or so without you wanting to release some water. If the unit is on, the pump will keep pumping even when there is no water being discharged. This means that it will recycle and pump the same water over and over, causing the water to get hot due to friction. This can be damaging to the pump. This is why auto start/stop is good. the pump will not recycle the same water, and you will not have to worry about this.

My recommendation: For what you need it for, I would get a direct drive, electric unit (with auto start/stop) with under 1500 PSI at 2-4 gallons per minute.




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