I bought a honda pressure washer on ebay- has no pressure what to do?

lal

Answer
Is it getting power? Running but not building pressure? You may not have the wand, hose or nozzle properly seated. If it is not running at all check the power cable and outlet. No power to the outlet? Look for a tripped GFCI or circuit breaker.

Bert

Best Buy Hot Water Pressure Washer?

DMPUS

I need to purchase a hot water pressure washer for commercial use.
I am looking at several options, but I am not sure what to look for: engine, brand, PSI, HP and etc..
I am looking at an interesting offer on ebay for a china made engine pressure washer for $2585 shipped. It looks nice, but I am not sure if that China engine will be reliable. On the other hand if I look for Honda engine HWPW I will probably have to sacrifice the 4500 PSI with less and will eventually pay more than $2600..
Here is the ebay deal: http://cgi.ebay.com/Powerland-4500-PSI-Gas-Power-Hot-Water-Pressure-Washer_W0QQitemZ290335600732QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item439959b05c&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14
What do you guys think and suggest?

Thanks,

D.

Answer
Here is my suggestion --- take it for what it's worth, which is speculation. Unless someone has purchased such a washer and knows....everyone can only 'speculate'.

So....if this is your first washer, and you're using it for business purposes, buy one locally. Pay the money and get one with a warranty from a company that looks like they will be in business at least for one year (yeah I know). That way if anything happens, you can take it there and let them deal with it and get it back quickly. Otherwise you run the risk of having something happen, then taking it somewhere and no one being familiar with it and either you're waiting forever for parts, or paying thru the nose for labor...or both and being without it for who knows how long.

After you buy your first one and you're good......then go buy one off ebay, then if anything happens, you're covered. If it turns out to be a good deal, then buy another one, but for the first one...for business....buy local.

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searching for Mobile Pressure washing trailers?

Rusty L

Answer
Any company that sells the presssure washers might be able to give you a lead on a trailer. Also check at marine yards and second hand marine stores. They are good places for leads for that sort of thing. Ebay might be a possibility. These links may be of some help. Best of luck with finding what you need.

Where can I find a local commercial equipment company selling Pressure Washer in New York or New Jersey?

Luis J

I need to buy a belt-drive pressure washer, around 3,500~4,000 psi. Home depot doesn't have any kind of that machine. Ebay has some, buy I don't want to do shipping and i'd like to buy them in person. Anyone knows if there is any local commercial equipment company selling that kind of pressure washer in New York or New Jersey?

Answer
Have you ever heard of the make Kranzle thay have distributers all over the world and i know of a couple in the states. we are Kranzle dealers in the UK. They are very reliable and powerful pressure washers. They do not work on a belt drive system pureley becasue they are slightly un reliable. If you google or yahoo kranzle you should be able to find a dealer in your local are.

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2004 accord coupe drain plug washer?

abraham

where do i go to replace this, does honda sell it? i do oil changes at home?

Answer
Save money on drain plug washers here: http://stores.ebay.com/Eaton-Auto-Parts_W0QQssPageNameZstrkQ3amefsxQ3asstQQtZkm

The problem with Honda's steel oil pans, is the drain plug threads are frequently damaged and the drain plug sealing area tends to distort. Honda uses an aluminum sealing washer to seal the drain plug against the pan. Aluminum is fairly malleable as far as metals go, but still requires much more pressure to crush than do other types of sealing washers, such as fiber, rubber, or copper. Honda recommends 29 ft/lbs of torque on the drain plug to seal the washer - less torque and the washer will not seal and you will find a puddle in your driveway the day after your oil change. The problem is the flimsy threads and thin sheet metal can not take this amount of torque and will fail after repeated torquings.

There is often a tendency to blame the last mechanic who changed the oil for damage to the threads. This is sometimes valid when you're talking about a Toyota, Nissan, Subaru, or Mazda, but rarely is the case with an Acura or Honda. Honda drain plug threads are slowly damaged over time, and like a slowing roulette wheel, the build up of thread damage can ruin any mechanic's attempt at an oil change at random. Some mechanics will try to avoid bringing the subject up (and potentially bringing the blame on themselves) by sticking the drain plug in with a glob of silicone sealer and hoping the next oil change is done somewhere else. A planned oil pan repair or replacement is preferable to an emergency oil pan replacement at an inconvenient time.

For more information and options go to the site this was taken from http://classic.artsautomotive.com/HondaOilPan.htm

Another solution can be found here http://www.1800oilplug.com/

The Wonder Washer where?

funn g

Hi. Where to get cheap than ebay? Thank you

Answer
Yes !! i found new online store which is offering many electronic and washer products at low cost than eBay or else with superior quality.

For more details check here: http://www.agritura.com/index.php/cat/c387_Pressure-Washers.html/category/Pressure-Washers

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searching for Mobile Pressure washing trailers?

Rusty L

Answer
Any company that sells the presssure washers might be able to give you a lead on a trailer. Also check at marine yards and second hand marine stores. They are good places for leads for that sort of thing. Ebay might be a possibility. These links may be of some help. Best of luck with finding what you need.

Where can I find a local commercial equipment company selling Pressure Washer in New York or New Jersey?

Luis J

I need to buy a belt-drive pressure washer, around 3,500~4,000 psi. Home depot doesn't have any kind of that machine. Ebay has some, buy I don't want to do shipping and i'd like to buy them in person. Anyone knows if there is any local commercial equipment company selling that kind of pressure washer in New York or New Jersey?

Answer
Have you ever heard of the make Kranzle thay have distributers all over the world and i know of a couple in the states. we are Kranzle dealers in the UK. They are very reliable and powerful pressure washers. They do not work on a belt drive system pureley becasue they are slightly un reliable. If you google or yahoo kranzle you should be able to find a dealer in your local are.

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How to covert a 2001 acura integra with an automatic transmission into a manual?

pressure washer ebay image

Just anoth

I have a 2001 acura integra. I love my car but saddly it is an automatic. What would I need to convert it into a manual. Time and money are not a factor

Answer
if money is not a factor go for it, it may cost alot.

"I just did an auto to manual swap over the weekend. I did all my research on this forum. Not all
of the threads were complete, so I decided to make a complete one.

I already had turbo in my car, but it sucked because it was an auto. This was worth it.
I have a 97 Integra LS.


Parts list

1. Manual Tranny with the fork and pilot bearing and flywheel cover. (I gotta LS for my turbo setup)
2. Clutch with pressure plate (I gotta Clutch Master from Ultrarev.com $409)
3. Flywheel (I gotta Clutch Master from Ultrarev.com $187)
4. All flywheel and pressure plate bolts (automatic ones are different)
5. Manual Starter with the 2 bolts (one long and one short)
6. Front tranny mount
7. Manual Rear support bracket (the one in the back that connects the tranny and the block)
8. Manual Front Tranny mount (it's the arm with 3 holes in it, the automatic is different)
9. Upper Tranny Conversion mount (I got mine from Hasport for $175, its a must, unless you want to modify
a stock manual mount. The automatic mount will not fit.)
10. clutch pedal (brake and gas are optional, I just cut my brake smaller and got
covers for the pedals. looks alright.
11. clutch master with clutch reseviour
12. slave cylinder
13. hard clutch lines going from clutch master to slave cylinder
14. soft clutch line between the hard clutch lines and slave cylinder
15. shift linkages with the pin and clamp for the shifter and
the 2 washers and bolt that support the stablizer
16. shifter
17. shift knob (skunk2)
18. manual shift console with shift boot
19. Everyone says that you need manaul axels and intermediate shaft, but
I was able to get away with using my automatic ones. But if you're not sure
get the manual ones. I wasn't sure either, but I had a set when I bought the tranny.
20. Optional Manual ECU. I bought one, but didn't use it becuase the wiring harness is different
for automatics. My automatic one works just fine.
21. All the nuts and bolts to bolt in the new parts. Look on http://www.acuraautomotiveparts.org/ to see what you need.
You're probably going to need all the tranny bolts, the three bolts for the front tranny mount,
the starter bolts, the shift linkage bolts, flywheel, and pressure plate bolts, also optional is
the silver arm that connects the tranny and block from the bottom. the automatic one is different.
22. Crucial tools: Something to cut metal,breaker bar, drill,and torque wrench for flywheel and pressure plate (19 lbs)
I was able to do the swap with a 137 piece crafsman tool set. You'll also need some sheet metal.

Getting Started

1. I spent over a year collecting the parts, its up to you on how long you want to search. I searched ebay and junk yards.
Make sure you get the right parts, people on ebay sell automatic parts listed as manual parts.
Make sure you know your stuff.

2. I took whole motor out (highly recommended) because it's easier that way and I need to change the timing belt.
You also need to take out the automatic shifter console. Make sure it's in Park.

3. Once you get the motor out, take off the automatic tranny and all the torque converter.

4. Put the flywheel with bearing, clutch, and pressure plate on. Make sure you torque it right with a torque wrench.

5. Make sure your tranny has the right pilot bearing. I got one from Clutch Master that came with my
clutch. It did not work. It was too thick. I had to take my tranny out again to replace it when
I was done. What a pain in the A$$.

6. Bolt on the tranny. If you want, you can test the tranny if it works. Put it into first gear
with the shift linkage, put an axel in one side and turn it to see if the cluch is gripping.
You'll know it's gripping if the other side where the axel goes in is also turning.
This is what I should have done before I put the motor back in.

7. The automatic tranny had an extra throttle cable and clips. The manual one only needs the
speed sensor and the the reverse lights

8. Just put the motor back in and all your axels and stuff and Add your fluids.

9. Where the automatic shifter is, there's a cover welded onto the bottom to protect the cable.
That needs to be cut out. I cut mine out from inside the car. If you don't cut it out, the
shift linkage will not fit. Just cover it up with sheet metal later with silicone to seal it.

10. You'll also need to drill the 2 holes to bolt up the shiftl linkage stablizer bar. They're
already marked for you. It's the 2 outline of holes that aren't drilled yet.

11. Put the clutch lines in with teflon tape. They don't need to be bolted on. I just left mine hanging.
Then you need to put in the clutch pedal and bleed the clutch.

12. When the shifter and clutch is in, the you'll want to do the wiring. I found this picture on the internet.
It really helped alot, but the directions where kinda of confusing so I cleaned it up a little.

On the shifter for the aut

How do u flush a fuel sytem on a car?

i have an old second gen firebird that im fixing up and i need to flush the fule system. how would i got about this?

Answer
The BEST way is to remove the tank, empty it, and blow it out with a compressed air-line. Check it doesn't have any rust in it, if it does, add gravel and use a pressure-washer for 20 minutes, to get the gravel to scour it clean. Then use a fuel-tank sealer - key that in on eBay, all of them work well.

Change the rubber parts of your fuel lines, as pin-holes can be almost invisible. Blow compressed air through the metal fuel pipes, after disconnecting the other end. Refit with a new filter, and use ALL NEW clips. You will NEVER have another fuel-line problem with that car!

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