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Just anoth
I have a 2001 acura integra. I love my car but saddly it is an automatic. What would I need to convert it into a manual. Time and money are not a factor
Answer
if money is not a factor go for it, it may cost alot.
"I just did an auto to manual swap over the weekend. I did all my research on this forum. Not all
of the threads were complete, so I decided to make a complete one.
I already had turbo in my car, but it sucked because it was an auto. This was worth it.
I have a 97 Integra LS.
Parts list
1. Manual Tranny with the fork and pilot bearing and flywheel cover. (I gotta LS for my turbo setup)
2. Clutch with pressure plate (I gotta Clutch Master from Ultrarev.com $409)
3. Flywheel (I gotta Clutch Master from Ultrarev.com $187)
4. All flywheel and pressure plate bolts (automatic ones are different)
5. Manual Starter with the 2 bolts (one long and one short)
6. Front tranny mount
7. Manual Rear support bracket (the one in the back that connects the tranny and the block)
8. Manual Front Tranny mount (it's the arm with 3 holes in it, the automatic is different)
9. Upper Tranny Conversion mount (I got mine from Hasport for $175, its a must, unless you want to modify
a stock manual mount. The automatic mount will not fit.)
10. clutch pedal (brake and gas are optional, I just cut my brake smaller and got
covers for the pedals. looks alright.
11. clutch master with clutch reseviour
12. slave cylinder
13. hard clutch lines going from clutch master to slave cylinder
14. soft clutch line between the hard clutch lines and slave cylinder
15. shift linkages with the pin and clamp for the shifter and
the 2 washers and bolt that support the stablizer
16. shifter
17. shift knob (skunk2)
18. manual shift console with shift boot
19. Everyone says that you need manaul axels and intermediate shaft, but
I was able to get away with using my automatic ones. But if you're not sure
get the manual ones. I wasn't sure either, but I had a set when I bought the tranny.
20. Optional Manual ECU. I bought one, but didn't use it becuase the wiring harness is different
for automatics. My automatic one works just fine.
21. All the nuts and bolts to bolt in the new parts. Look on http://www.acuraautomotiveparts.org/ to see what you need.
You're probably going to need all the tranny bolts, the three bolts for the front tranny mount,
the starter bolts, the shift linkage bolts, flywheel, and pressure plate bolts, also optional is
the silver arm that connects the tranny and block from the bottom. the automatic one is different.
22. Crucial tools: Something to cut metal,breaker bar, drill,and torque wrench for flywheel and pressure plate (19 lbs)
I was able to do the swap with a 137 piece crafsman tool set. You'll also need some sheet metal.
Getting Started
1. I spent over a year collecting the parts, its up to you on how long you want to search. I searched ebay and junk yards.
Make sure you get the right parts, people on ebay sell automatic parts listed as manual parts.
Make sure you know your stuff.
2. I took whole motor out (highly recommended) because it's easier that way and I need to change the timing belt.
You also need to take out the automatic shifter console. Make sure it's in Park.
3. Once you get the motor out, take off the automatic tranny and all the torque converter.
4. Put the flywheel with bearing, clutch, and pressure plate on. Make sure you torque it right with a torque wrench.
5. Make sure your tranny has the right pilot bearing. I got one from Clutch Master that came with my
clutch. It did not work. It was too thick. I had to take my tranny out again to replace it when
I was done. What a pain in the A$$.
6. Bolt on the tranny. If you want, you can test the tranny if it works. Put it into first gear
with the shift linkage, put an axel in one side and turn it to see if the cluch is gripping.
You'll know it's gripping if the other side where the axel goes in is also turning.
This is what I should have done before I put the motor back in.
7. The automatic tranny had an extra throttle cable and clips. The manual one only needs the
speed sensor and the the reverse lights
8. Just put the motor back in and all your axels and stuff and Add your fluids.
9. Where the automatic shifter is, there's a cover welded onto the bottom to protect the cable.
That needs to be cut out. I cut mine out from inside the car. If you don't cut it out, the
shift linkage will not fit. Just cover it up with sheet metal later with silicone to seal it.
10. You'll also need to drill the 2 holes to bolt up the shiftl linkage stablizer bar. They're
already marked for you. It's the 2 outline of holes that aren't drilled yet.
11. Put the clutch lines in with teflon tape. They don't need to be bolted on. I just left mine hanging.
Then you need to put in the clutch pedal and bleed the clutch.
12. When the shifter and clutch is in, the you'll want to do the wiring. I found this picture on the internet.
It really helped alot, but the directions where kinda of confusing so I cleaned it up a little.
On the shifter for the aut
if money is not a factor go for it, it may cost alot.
"I just did an auto to manual swap over the weekend. I did all my research on this forum. Not all
of the threads were complete, so I decided to make a complete one.
I already had turbo in my car, but it sucked because it was an auto. This was worth it.
I have a 97 Integra LS.
Parts list
1. Manual Tranny with the fork and pilot bearing and flywheel cover. (I gotta LS for my turbo setup)
2. Clutch with pressure plate (I gotta Clutch Master from Ultrarev.com $409)
3. Flywheel (I gotta Clutch Master from Ultrarev.com $187)
4. All flywheel and pressure plate bolts (automatic ones are different)
5. Manual Starter with the 2 bolts (one long and one short)
6. Front tranny mount
7. Manual Rear support bracket (the one in the back that connects the tranny and the block)
8. Manual Front Tranny mount (it's the arm with 3 holes in it, the automatic is different)
9. Upper Tranny Conversion mount (I got mine from Hasport for $175, its a must, unless you want to modify
a stock manual mount. The automatic mount will not fit.)
10. clutch pedal (brake and gas are optional, I just cut my brake smaller and got
covers for the pedals. looks alright.
11. clutch master with clutch reseviour
12. slave cylinder
13. hard clutch lines going from clutch master to slave cylinder
14. soft clutch line between the hard clutch lines and slave cylinder
15. shift linkages with the pin and clamp for the shifter and
the 2 washers and bolt that support the stablizer
16. shifter
17. shift knob (skunk2)
18. manual shift console with shift boot
19. Everyone says that you need manaul axels and intermediate shaft, but
I was able to get away with using my automatic ones. But if you're not sure
get the manual ones. I wasn't sure either, but I had a set when I bought the tranny.
20. Optional Manual ECU. I bought one, but didn't use it becuase the wiring harness is different
for automatics. My automatic one works just fine.
21. All the nuts and bolts to bolt in the new parts. Look on http://www.acuraautomotiveparts.org/ to see what you need.
You're probably going to need all the tranny bolts, the three bolts for the front tranny mount,
the starter bolts, the shift linkage bolts, flywheel, and pressure plate bolts, also optional is
the silver arm that connects the tranny and block from the bottom. the automatic one is different.
22. Crucial tools: Something to cut metal,breaker bar, drill,and torque wrench for flywheel and pressure plate (19 lbs)
I was able to do the swap with a 137 piece crafsman tool set. You'll also need some sheet metal.
Getting Started
1. I spent over a year collecting the parts, its up to you on how long you want to search. I searched ebay and junk yards.
Make sure you get the right parts, people on ebay sell automatic parts listed as manual parts.
Make sure you know your stuff.
2. I took whole motor out (highly recommended) because it's easier that way and I need to change the timing belt.
You also need to take out the automatic shifter console. Make sure it's in Park.
3. Once you get the motor out, take off the automatic tranny and all the torque converter.
4. Put the flywheel with bearing, clutch, and pressure plate on. Make sure you torque it right with a torque wrench.
5. Make sure your tranny has the right pilot bearing. I got one from Clutch Master that came with my
clutch. It did not work. It was too thick. I had to take my tranny out again to replace it when
I was done. What a pain in the A$$.
6. Bolt on the tranny. If you want, you can test the tranny if it works. Put it into first gear
with the shift linkage, put an axel in one side and turn it to see if the cluch is gripping.
You'll know it's gripping if the other side where the axel goes in is also turning.
This is what I should have done before I put the motor back in.
7. The automatic tranny had an extra throttle cable and clips. The manual one only needs the
speed sensor and the the reverse lights
8. Just put the motor back in and all your axels and stuff and Add your fluids.
9. Where the automatic shifter is, there's a cover welded onto the bottom to protect the cable.
That needs to be cut out. I cut mine out from inside the car. If you don't cut it out, the
shift linkage will not fit. Just cover it up with sheet metal later with silicone to seal it.
10. You'll also need to drill the 2 holes to bolt up the shiftl linkage stablizer bar. They're
already marked for you. It's the 2 outline of holes that aren't drilled yet.
11. Put the clutch lines in with teflon tape. They don't need to be bolted on. I just left mine hanging.
Then you need to put in the clutch pedal and bleed the clutch.
12. When the shifter and clutch is in, the you'll want to do the wiring. I found this picture on the internet.
It really helped alot, but the directions where kinda of confusing so I cleaned it up a little.
On the shifter for the aut
How do u flush a fuel sytem on a car?
i have an old second gen firebird that im fixing up and i need to flush the fule system. how would i got about this?
Answer
The BEST way is to remove the tank, empty it, and blow it out with a compressed air-line. Check it doesn't have any rust in it, if it does, add gravel and use a pressure-washer for 20 minutes, to get the gravel to scour it clean. Then use a fuel-tank sealer - key that in on eBay, all of them work well.
Change the rubber parts of your fuel lines, as pin-holes can be almost invisible. Blow compressed air through the metal fuel pipes, after disconnecting the other end. Refit with a new filter, and use ALL NEW clips. You will NEVER have another fuel-line problem with that car!
The BEST way is to remove the tank, empty it, and blow it out with a compressed air-line. Check it doesn't have any rust in it, if it does, add gravel and use a pressure-washer for 20 minutes, to get the gravel to scour it clean. Then use a fuel-tank sealer - key that in on eBay, all of them work well.
Change the rubber parts of your fuel lines, as pin-holes can be almost invisible. Blow compressed air through the metal fuel pipes, after disconnecting the other end. Refit with a new filter, and use ALL NEW clips. You will NEVER have another fuel-line problem with that car!
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