pressure washer fittings image
nathan
I swapped out electric hot water heaters. They were the same size (50 gal) and I used all the same diameter fittings, but I feel that my hot water is not holding for as long and the hot water pressure in the shower is greatly reduced. It is not leaking, all valves are fully opened, and the thermostat is set to 120 just as it was on my old one. They were both GE energy star products. I cannot troubleshoot this one. Any suggestions?
Answer
A few questions - in rank order of likelihood:
a) Were the fittings you used threaded brass, sweat, shark or PEX? That is, I know the connections to the tank were threaded, but did you make any other changes?
b) Are your valves globe or ball type?
c) Did you turn off the Main at all?
d) Does your system have a PRV (pressure reducing valve) or backflow valve in it anywhere?
e) Are you on a pump or a municipal system?
A - if you made changes to any fittings, especially sweat-type, you may have used to much solder which has narrowed the diameter of the pipe somewhere. Or, you may have left some debris inside a pipe that is caught in a valve.
B - Older globe valves are notorious for 'throwing' their washer - the set-screw holding the washer corrodes and the washer floats free inside the valve. In that case, the washer will partially block the valve even when it appears open. I try to replace any critical globe valves with ball-valves (full-flow) whenever I am working on a system.
C - As above, with the added concern that main valves, especially globe-type , sometimes accumulate grit and corrosion products behind them which when disturbed can clog at the valve or further down the system.
D - PRV and Backflow devices are notorious for clogging even with little bits of debris in the system. Given how they operate, that is no surprise. Try to clear any that you have.
E - Some municipalities will lower pressure at times - that is a question for them.
In general, I hope you flushed the system for at least one full minute at full flow at a hose bib or a full-flow faucet such as laundry tub or a kitchen sink with the aerator removed, and preferably close to the work. So then, check your valves, clean the screens, and drain a gallon of water or so from the bottom of the water heater. If that does not do it, you may need to put a pressure gauge on your system and see where the big drop occurs when water is flowing. That will be the choke-point.
A few questions - in rank order of likelihood:
a) Were the fittings you used threaded brass, sweat, shark or PEX? That is, I know the connections to the tank were threaded, but did you make any other changes?
b) Are your valves globe or ball type?
c) Did you turn off the Main at all?
d) Does your system have a PRV (pressure reducing valve) or backflow valve in it anywhere?
e) Are you on a pump or a municipal system?
A - if you made changes to any fittings, especially sweat-type, you may have used to much solder which has narrowed the diameter of the pipe somewhere. Or, you may have left some debris inside a pipe that is caught in a valve.
B - Older globe valves are notorious for 'throwing' their washer - the set-screw holding the washer corrodes and the washer floats free inside the valve. In that case, the washer will partially block the valve even when it appears open. I try to replace any critical globe valves with ball-valves (full-flow) whenever I am working on a system.
C - As above, with the added concern that main valves, especially globe-type , sometimes accumulate grit and corrosion products behind them which when disturbed can clog at the valve or further down the system.
D - PRV and Backflow devices are notorious for clogging even with little bits of debris in the system. Given how they operate, that is no surprise. Try to clear any that you have.
E - Some municipalities will lower pressure at times - that is a question for them.
In general, I hope you flushed the system for at least one full minute at full flow at a hose bib or a full-flow faucet such as laundry tub or a kitchen sink with the aerator removed, and preferably close to the work. So then, check your valves, clean the screens, and drain a gallon of water or so from the bottom of the water heater. If that does not do it, you may need to put a pressure gauge on your system and see where the big drop occurs when water is flowing. That will be the choke-point.
How to go about sealing coolant leak from cooling lines on radiator?
William
Hey, I have a k1500 GM pickup, and I recently got a new radiator drain plug because the old one was leaking a little. Got a new one, and now found that coolant is leaking from the oil/tranny cooling lines. Not oil, but coolant is leaking from behind them where the metal fittings meets the plastic. It's a plastic tank by the way.
I was thinking about stop-leak, but that would be a last resort for me. I heard that there are rubber gaskets on the inside of the tank that could be replaced, but i'm not sure.
I'd like to hold off on getting a new radiator, because this one is in pretty good shape(minus the leaks, lol), and I want to use this one until i get a new engine, then i'll get a new radiator for that. How should I go about doing this? Should I unscrew the metal fittings and buy new gaskets(if they even sell them)? Should I instead use RTV sealant? Or go with stop leak?
Answer
There are a few ways to fix this with the best being a new unit but out side of that as you stated you wish to avoid that right now I will list a few tricks I have used in just cases like this
1) Try tighting the fittings a little bit but be careful as they are in plastic!
2) wrap in Teflon tape at lest 3 to 4 wraps but no more then 6 as it may not fit back in with that many . Normally 3 to 4 will do it.
3 pull the lines( there your auto tranny cooling lines by the way) and use a tight fitting rubber washer on the out side next to the hole then wrap the threads with Teflon tape 3 to 4 times and tighten it up.
if none of this works buy a new radiator as using stop leak is never a good deal if it can be avoided at all as not only will it stop the leak (maybe) but because of how it works it can also plug or come close to it the small tubes in the radiator and or heater core besides coat the cooling passages in the motor lowering there efficiency. Now if you do replace the radiator do your self a big favor and do these things also
1) Flush the motor and heater core before you install the new radiator do this by removing the thermostat and then run a hose into the return radiator line from the motor tell you get clear water.
2) Replace thermostat with a new one
3) Replace all radiator hoses and heater hoses including any small by-pass hoses.
4) Replace the radiator cap with a new one that also is with in the OEM pressure rating.
Doing the above will stop any contamination from getting into the new radiator right off the bat. It will also stop you from blowing older hoses that may be weak from the possible higher pressure of the new radiator being it will not longer be leaking and can now build full pressure some thing it most likely has not done for some time. (Learned this one the hard way on the side of the road late at night as one hose after another blew!)
There are a few ways to fix this with the best being a new unit but out side of that as you stated you wish to avoid that right now I will list a few tricks I have used in just cases like this
1) Try tighting the fittings a little bit but be careful as they are in plastic!
2) wrap in Teflon tape at lest 3 to 4 wraps but no more then 6 as it may not fit back in with that many . Normally 3 to 4 will do it.
3 pull the lines( there your auto tranny cooling lines by the way) and use a tight fitting rubber washer on the out side next to the hole then wrap the threads with Teflon tape 3 to 4 times and tighten it up.
if none of this works buy a new radiator as using stop leak is never a good deal if it can be avoided at all as not only will it stop the leak (maybe) but because of how it works it can also plug or come close to it the small tubes in the radiator and or heater core besides coat the cooling passages in the motor lowering there efficiency. Now if you do replace the radiator do your self a big favor and do these things also
1) Flush the motor and heater core before you install the new radiator do this by removing the thermostat and then run a hose into the return radiator line from the motor tell you get clear water.
2) Replace thermostat with a new one
3) Replace all radiator hoses and heater hoses including any small by-pass hoses.
4) Replace the radiator cap with a new one that also is with in the OEM pressure rating.
Doing the above will stop any contamination from getting into the new radiator right off the bat. It will also stop you from blowing older hoses that may be weak from the possible higher pressure of the new radiator being it will not longer be leaking and can now build full pressure some thing it most likely has not done for some time. (Learned this one the hard way on the side of the road late at night as one hose after another blew!)
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