Q. I have a 150 cc moped motor and want to use it to power a generator and a pressure washer pump.
I was wondering if it would be enough power to run them.
I was wondering if it would be enough power to run them.
Answer
You need to know the generator and a pressure washer pump capacities and power requirement. I agree with answer above me for 8-10 hp.
You need to know the generator and a pressure washer pump capacities and power requirement. I agree with answer above me for 8-10 hp.
19 hp kawasaki no power under load?
Don C
is on a ferris walk behind i engage the blades and it bog's down some
Governor seems to be moving like it wants to take the rpm up but doesn't coils look good new plugs air filter fuel filter both cylinders firing
took fly wheel off wood ruff key looks great shaft looks good cleaned it all up put it back together
clutch engages and disengages fine took belt off spins freely hope thats good
any other suggestions thanks Don
Answer
Assuming the air filter is not totally clogged up: Often as not, you mow the long grass without walking through the area first. The children leave their toys lying about and you forgot to pick up that small concrete lump, or you forgot about that large protruding rock or tree stump. Then one day, BANG! You hit something and now the mower will not start, either it overheats and runs erratically, wont rev up and has little or no power, or is hard to start or refuses to start at all. What could be wrong?
This is a classic case of flywheel shear-pin (key-way) bent or broken. What is a shear-pin? Briggs & Stratton engines have a shear-pin that is a small ½ inch by 1/8 inch aluminum pin that protects the crankshaft from damage. The pin is located in a slot between the flywheel and the crankshaft. This shear-pin might be bent or broken and will need to be replaced.
You need to remove the covering (shroud) and the fuel tank. Next off comes the pull-cord assembly. This reveals the flywheel, held on by a large 15/16th nut. To remove this nut you need to keep the flywheel from turning. To do this you will need to secure the flywheel. Strap a good leather belt round the flywheel, and, allowing the buckle to rest against small block of wood against the ignition coil assembly (it works for me). Using a long breaker-bar with either a ½ or ¾ inch square set to fit the 15/16th socket to the flywheel nut. Have someone help you to hold the mower. Turn the nut and remove the nut. Do not loose the nut!
Next, you have to remove the flywheel itself. Here is the trick. You need to hire, beg, borrow, or, dare I say it, steal a large bearing a puller. Fit the three-legged puller over the flywheel. The flywheel is not going to come off easily without some assistance. Two things you can do here.
1)Now, with pressure on the flywheel, sharply tap the top of the puller.
2)Using a small blowlamp, heat the flywheel to expand the metal, and this helps the puller to remove the flywheel from the crankshaft. Either way works well. Remove the flywheel and you either will see the shear-pin attached to the crankshaftâs groove or stuck to the flywheel.
I am going to assume you have purchased a new (I always have two handy) shear-pin from your local small engine repair store. The will cost in the region of $2.50 and look rather expensive for what they are.
To clear any rust from the flywheel, polish the flywheel inner hole. Using some very fine (preferably used) emery cloth, clean the crankshaft. Using a gas soaked rag, wipe away all traces of emery dust from both the crankshaft and the flywheel. Rub a little grease on the crankshaft and then refit the flywheel, remembering to line up the crankshaft slot with the flywheel slot. Place the new shear-pin into the slot and, using a small punch, or if you donât have one, a long 4" nail comes in handy, tap the shear-pin down until it seats fully home.
Replace the nut and washer and tighten to 65 foot lbs. Refit all other removed items, and start he mower.
Happy mowing
Assuming the air filter is not totally clogged up: Often as not, you mow the long grass without walking through the area first. The children leave their toys lying about and you forgot to pick up that small concrete lump, or you forgot about that large protruding rock or tree stump. Then one day, BANG! You hit something and now the mower will not start, either it overheats and runs erratically, wont rev up and has little or no power, or is hard to start or refuses to start at all. What could be wrong?
This is a classic case of flywheel shear-pin (key-way) bent or broken. What is a shear-pin? Briggs & Stratton engines have a shear-pin that is a small ½ inch by 1/8 inch aluminum pin that protects the crankshaft from damage. The pin is located in a slot between the flywheel and the crankshaft. This shear-pin might be bent or broken and will need to be replaced.
You need to remove the covering (shroud) and the fuel tank. Next off comes the pull-cord assembly. This reveals the flywheel, held on by a large 15/16th nut. To remove this nut you need to keep the flywheel from turning. To do this you will need to secure the flywheel. Strap a good leather belt round the flywheel, and, allowing the buckle to rest against small block of wood against the ignition coil assembly (it works for me). Using a long breaker-bar with either a ½ or ¾ inch square set to fit the 15/16th socket to the flywheel nut. Have someone help you to hold the mower. Turn the nut and remove the nut. Do not loose the nut!
Next, you have to remove the flywheel itself. Here is the trick. You need to hire, beg, borrow, or, dare I say it, steal a large bearing a puller. Fit the three-legged puller over the flywheel. The flywheel is not going to come off easily without some assistance. Two things you can do here.
1)Now, with pressure on the flywheel, sharply tap the top of the puller.
2)Using a small blowlamp, heat the flywheel to expand the metal, and this helps the puller to remove the flywheel from the crankshaft. Either way works well. Remove the flywheel and you either will see the shear-pin attached to the crankshaftâs groove or stuck to the flywheel.
I am going to assume you have purchased a new (I always have two handy) shear-pin from your local small engine repair store. The will cost in the region of $2.50 and look rather expensive for what they are.
To clear any rust from the flywheel, polish the flywheel inner hole. Using some very fine (preferably used) emery cloth, clean the crankshaft. Using a gas soaked rag, wipe away all traces of emery dust from both the crankshaft and the flywheel. Rub a little grease on the crankshaft and then refit the flywheel, remembering to line up the crankshaft slot with the flywheel slot. Place the new shear-pin into the slot and, using a small punch, or if you donât have one, a long 4" nail comes in handy, tap the shear-pin down until it seats fully home.
Replace the nut and washer and tighten to 65 foot lbs. Refit all other removed items, and start he mower.
Happy mowing
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