dopi
The flexible metal water supply hose connected to the bottom of the commode tank vibrates ( noiselessly ) at a high speed only when the tank is being filled after a flush. I discovered this when I was feeling the hose for possible moisture because the plumber had had to replace the first hose he installed because it leaked. and I wanted to make sure the second one was not leaking. Both water supply hoses he installed under the basin also leaked, flooding the bathroom for several hours. He said all three hoses were defective. The plumbing company has stated that they will be good for whatever repairs are necessary ( three bids necessary). Another clue concerning the vibration: the hose to the other commode tank also vibrates. The second commode has worked OK for eight years. My concern is that the vibration will, over time, loosen the connection to the tank and cause leakage. This is not "water hammer"; there is no noise. Does anyone have the answer?
Answer
This IS "water hammer", whether it makes a noise or not.. It is caused by either air being in the water system, high water pressure, or something being loose in the system (like the washer in the stop going to the toilet supply). It will be felt in the supply line because that is the area with least support and the most flex.
If you have had the plumbing worked on recently, air could have been introduced into the lines. It will eventually work its way out.
If it is from high pressure, a number of different combinations could cause your symptoms. A loose washer in the stop going to the closet supply could be vibrating. If you changed the ballcock valve from a water displacement type (rod and float) to a positive shut off type (fluidmaster), the action against the new washer will cause a quick start stop action that causes vibration. There may be an adjustment screw on the ballcock valve that will minimize or stop the vibration.
Turn the cold water on in the lavatory faucet or tub while flushing the toilet. If the vibration stops, it is a pressure problem. If you have a pressure regulator, reduce the pressure by turning the set screw a couple of rounds.
It also could mean that the regulator is going bad.
Pressure problems usually show up first in ballcock valves, and eventually in solenoid valves in the dishwasher, washing machine or ice maker.
At worst, a new regulator and a pressure expansion tank can be installed in the water system to alleviate the problem
This IS "water hammer", whether it makes a noise or not.. It is caused by either air being in the water system, high water pressure, or something being loose in the system (like the washer in the stop going to the toilet supply). It will be felt in the supply line because that is the area with least support and the most flex.
If you have had the plumbing worked on recently, air could have been introduced into the lines. It will eventually work its way out.
If it is from high pressure, a number of different combinations could cause your symptoms. A loose washer in the stop going to the closet supply could be vibrating. If you changed the ballcock valve from a water displacement type (rod and float) to a positive shut off type (fluidmaster), the action against the new washer will cause a quick start stop action that causes vibration. There may be an adjustment screw on the ballcock valve that will minimize or stop the vibration.
Turn the cold water on in the lavatory faucet or tub while flushing the toilet. If the vibration stops, it is a pressure problem. If you have a pressure regulator, reduce the pressure by turning the set screw a couple of rounds.
It also could mean that the regulator is going bad.
Pressure problems usually show up first in ballcock valves, and eventually in solenoid valves in the dishwasher, washing machine or ice maker.
At worst, a new regulator and a pressure expansion tank can be installed in the water system to alleviate the problem
my dish dish washer wont power on and it needs to be drained (it stinks) how can I manually drain it?
crenshawt4
my garbage disposal also stopped working ( has been about a year now)and I believe the drain, pipes or something is plugged up. do yo need a garbage disposal in order to have a dishwasher?
Answer
a quick way just siphon it out ,get a length of hose ,fill it with water ,get a bucket ,place one end of hose deep as you can in the water ,of the dish washer ,but block the other end of the hose with your thumb ,don't let air in,keep thumb on hose and place it down-low in the bucket,on the floor lower than the area you want to drain.keep the hose in the dish washer under water the whole time,and release your thumb,water should run down-hill into the bucket.
your dishwasher's drain is probably connected to the garbage disposal,the hose is attached by a regular hose clamp,go get your bucket,and a screw driver,and probably a flashlight.if the disposal hasn't worked for a while,the line is probably stopped up,loosen the clamp holding the hose and twist and pull till the hose comes off(bucket ready?) water might try draining out of dishwasher.have someone ready to help you if the bucket gets full,raise the hose high as you can till the water stops ,empty the bucket and keep doing this till completely drained.poke out the hole in the garbage disposal with the screw driver,clean as well as possible. if you get it clear you can re-attach the hose ,if you check on the bottom of the disposal there might be a bolt to turn the rotor,use a wrench and move it a bit at a time back and forth it should loosen a bit but depending on how bad it is(damaged or just stopped up) you might pour some cooking oil into the drain that might lubricate it some.if you get it to turn kind of easy you might get it to run,breaker has probably kicked look for a little red button on the bottom or side of the unit,and push to reset,if it tries to turn but slow turn off quickly and and work it more if you persist you might get it going. there is probably a pressure switch in the dishwasher that will reset itself after the clog is removed,and so operate normally. as long as you keep the line clear it can operate without the disposal......tom
a quick way just siphon it out ,get a length of hose ,fill it with water ,get a bucket ,place one end of hose deep as you can in the water ,of the dish washer ,but block the other end of the hose with your thumb ,don't let air in,keep thumb on hose and place it down-low in the bucket,on the floor lower than the area you want to drain.keep the hose in the dish washer under water the whole time,and release your thumb,water should run down-hill into the bucket.
your dishwasher's drain is probably connected to the garbage disposal,the hose is attached by a regular hose clamp,go get your bucket,and a screw driver,and probably a flashlight.if the disposal hasn't worked for a while,the line is probably stopped up,loosen the clamp holding the hose and twist and pull till the hose comes off(bucket ready?) water might try draining out of dishwasher.have someone ready to help you if the bucket gets full,raise the hose high as you can till the water stops ,empty the bucket and keep doing this till completely drained.poke out the hole in the garbage disposal with the screw driver,clean as well as possible. if you get it clear you can re-attach the hose ,if you check on the bottom of the disposal there might be a bolt to turn the rotor,use a wrench and move it a bit at a time back and forth it should loosen a bit but depending on how bad it is(damaged or just stopped up) you might pour some cooking oil into the drain that might lubricate it some.if you get it to turn kind of easy you might get it to run,breaker has probably kicked look for a little red button on the bottom or side of the unit,and push to reset,if it tries to turn but slow turn off quickly and and work it more if you persist you might get it going. there is probably a pressure switch in the dishwasher that will reset itself after the clog is removed,and so operate normally. as long as you keep the line clear it can operate without the disposal......tom
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