janie
I use the single hose that fills it by buying a y hose and hooking it to the single hose so I can put one end in hot and one in cold.
2. Do I need any washers or does that come with the y hose. am they all on size fits all
3. Also do I need to so anything special to the drain hose.
4 How about dryer hose..are the the same size too
thanks for answering these 4 related questions
there is only one hose coming from the washer and there are two faucets
Answer
For any washer you only need a few items.
Electrical power --- 120 V
Water supply -- the single hose with an end that resembles a garden hose will screw right onto the tap coming from the wall in the townhome.
Water drainage --- you have a really big and tough water hose attached to your washing machine and it will connected to some sort of a a black PVC pipe fitting on the wall near where the washer hook up will be located. The downflow is usually very small opening b/c of the violent jarring caused by the high water pressure so it is usually anchored inside the wall and not readily noticeable.
Level your washing machine with the legs or else your machine will be unbalanced.
Otherwise, you are good to go.
For any washer you only need a few items.
Electrical power --- 120 V
Water supply -- the single hose with an end that resembles a garden hose will screw right onto the tap coming from the wall in the townhome.
Water drainage --- you have a really big and tough water hose attached to your washing machine and it will connected to some sort of a a black PVC pipe fitting on the wall near where the washer hook up will be located. The downflow is usually very small opening b/c of the violent jarring caused by the high water pressure so it is usually anchored inside the wall and not readily noticeable.
Level your washing machine with the legs or else your machine will be unbalanced.
Otherwise, you are good to go.
Can i vent my portable A/C unit through my dryer vent?
David B
I live in a loft in SF and can't vent the A/C to the window as i want to use it upstairs where there are no windows. I do have a washer/dryer combo unit upstairs, however. Can i vent my A/C unit thru the dryer vent? Would i just cut into it and combine the two? THANKS SO MUCH!
Answer
Ditto on all the "bad idea" answers above.
Besides the lint buildup/carbon monoxide/having to put a "Y" fitting in place/ etc there is a sizing problem. The pipe coming off the back of most portable air conditioners is 5" diameter and most dryers have a 4" diameter pipe. So not only would you be restricting the outlet simply by using the standard 4" outlet for a dryer but you also want to add it to an existing line that I assume you want to also use.
Also if set up in a window the unit vent has no return air stopping flap on it. A typical dryer vent has one and this will restrict the air flow.
Therefore air would tend to go from the AC to the dryer regardless of the outlet.
So here is what I recently did. I purchased from HD (but look in Lowes or any store that handles ductwork) an external vent that looks like a dryer vent except the diameter is for a 6" pipe. (I don't think a 5" one is common and the 6' one is less restrictive.) Into that I installed a 6" to 5" reducer. I needed to cut a 5"+ dia. hole into a piece of plywood for mounting. This was installed in the wall as a back to the 5" dia. adapter that comes with the AC unit. This adapter has spaces for 4 screws at the corners and is ment to attach to the plate that goes in the window in a normal installation. A 6" hole is cut through the outside wall and the vent is pushed through, screwed in and caulked. On the inside the plywood plate is secured in the wall with the 5" end of the reducer going through it. The adapter is attached and I re sheetrocked the portion of the wall that I cut out to give me better axcess.
There is a 5" dia. cap that comes with the AC unit and this is installed over the 5" adapter end inside for the winter. I also put a screen made of 1/4" hardware cloth on the outside of the vent to keep birds from entering.
The unit is now using this exhaust just fine. This particular unit sends all condensate out of the 5" Vent line. I have another unit that produces liquid condensate and for that I am using a condensate pump and a separate liquid line.
This was done on a standard wood frame construction but could easily be adapted to masonry construction. If you are a bit handy or know someone who is it should not be too difficult to accomplish. It is really no more difficult then putting in a vent for a kitchen hood or a bathroom fan.
Edit: Mr. E inspector would it be a "violation" if it were a kit hood vent or a bathroom vent (probably) or an electric dryer vent? What if it was a duct without a motor (or individual motors like some apartment buildings with common ducts) and therefore not governed by the NEC. Justin is from Ca. I know in NYC they have only partially adopted the NEC. Are you sure it would always be a violation in Justin's neck of the woods?
With defference to Justin's answer above. Most techs will proceed with a solution that falls within the disciplines that they are most familiar with. This is right but it doesn't necessarily make it the best solution. If you choose to install a Y connector you have to make sure you do install the dampers and you can also get 5" to 4" reducers if you find it is necessary.
The pipe sizes will then fit but what I have said about restrictions also applies and you may be asking the original 5" airflow to be reduced to 4" as well as pass by 2 dampers. A ventilation specialist or the manufacturer's tech support could tell you for certain if the restriction (static pressure) would shorten the life of the AC unit or further decrease the efficiency and thus cooling of this relative inefficient type of unit. Regardless of your decision. Stay cool (as possible)
Ditto on all the "bad idea" answers above.
Besides the lint buildup/carbon monoxide/having to put a "Y" fitting in place/ etc there is a sizing problem. The pipe coming off the back of most portable air conditioners is 5" diameter and most dryers have a 4" diameter pipe. So not only would you be restricting the outlet simply by using the standard 4" outlet for a dryer but you also want to add it to an existing line that I assume you want to also use.
Also if set up in a window the unit vent has no return air stopping flap on it. A typical dryer vent has one and this will restrict the air flow.
Therefore air would tend to go from the AC to the dryer regardless of the outlet.
So here is what I recently did. I purchased from HD (but look in Lowes or any store that handles ductwork) an external vent that looks like a dryer vent except the diameter is for a 6" pipe. (I don't think a 5" one is common and the 6' one is less restrictive.) Into that I installed a 6" to 5" reducer. I needed to cut a 5"+ dia. hole into a piece of plywood for mounting. This was installed in the wall as a back to the 5" dia. adapter that comes with the AC unit. This adapter has spaces for 4 screws at the corners and is ment to attach to the plate that goes in the window in a normal installation. A 6" hole is cut through the outside wall and the vent is pushed through, screwed in and caulked. On the inside the plywood plate is secured in the wall with the 5" end of the reducer going through it. The adapter is attached and I re sheetrocked the portion of the wall that I cut out to give me better axcess.
There is a 5" dia. cap that comes with the AC unit and this is installed over the 5" adapter end inside for the winter. I also put a screen made of 1/4" hardware cloth on the outside of the vent to keep birds from entering.
The unit is now using this exhaust just fine. This particular unit sends all condensate out of the 5" Vent line. I have another unit that produces liquid condensate and for that I am using a condensate pump and a separate liquid line.
This was done on a standard wood frame construction but could easily be adapted to masonry construction. If you are a bit handy or know someone who is it should not be too difficult to accomplish. It is really no more difficult then putting in a vent for a kitchen hood or a bathroom fan.
Edit: Mr. E inspector would it be a "violation" if it were a kit hood vent or a bathroom vent (probably) or an electric dryer vent? What if it was a duct without a motor (or individual motors like some apartment buildings with common ducts) and therefore not governed by the NEC. Justin is from Ca. I know in NYC they have only partially adopted the NEC. Are you sure it would always be a violation in Justin's neck of the woods?
With defference to Justin's answer above. Most techs will proceed with a solution that falls within the disciplines that they are most familiar with. This is right but it doesn't necessarily make it the best solution. If you choose to install a Y connector you have to make sure you do install the dampers and you can also get 5" to 4" reducers if you find it is necessary.
The pipe sizes will then fit but what I have said about restrictions also applies and you may be asking the original 5" airflow to be reduced to 4" as well as pass by 2 dampers. A ventilation specialist or the manufacturer's tech support could tell you for certain if the restriction (static pressure) would shorten the life of the AC unit or further decrease the efficiency and thus cooling of this relative inefficient type of unit. Regardless of your decision. Stay cool (as possible)
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